Accessories
Question: What is the correct routing of the wiring to the rear fenders of an MH 50. I have a tail light on the left and a work light(with switch) on the right. I got a light harness from Jim at Agri service.
Answer: The attached link from our FENA website is labeled for the F-40 but as you can see it is also for the MH-50 and early production MF-50. http://fergusontractors.org/fena/wp-content/uploads/F40light-haarness-web.jpg.
Here is some additional information you may find helpful:
Ferguson wiring diagrams show the wires running under the axle housings. My own experience has been the wires are vulnerable to damage when routed in this manner. I prefer to run the wires along the 1 1/2″ brake shafts that run between the brake backing plates and the axle trumpet housings. Use a Ford part made for this purpose to attach the cable to the shaft, Steiner Tractor Parts part # ABC545. You will need 4 @ $4.65 each.
If you need them, replacement clips are available for the other locations on the tractor including:
6 Dennis Carpenter #9N-17668 @ $2.00 ea. Replaces MF #180746M1 (enlarge the hole to make an 180746M2).
4 Dennis Carpenter #9N-17667 @ $3.00 ea. Replaces MF #1750679M1
4 Dennis Carpenter #B-14585 @ $1.00 ea. replaces MF #1750678M1
Depending on how your headlight wires are run you may need either Dennis Carpenter #358297-S @ $1.00 ea. or Dennis Carpenter #809122 @ $3.00 ea.
If your wiring harness uses one wire running in loom along one side of the fuel tank you will need 3 of the #358297-S clips. If your wiring harness uses wires running in loom along both sides of the fuel tank you will need 6 of those clips.
If your wiring harness runs those wires along the side of the fuel tank with no loom you will need either 3 or 6 of part #809122. If there is one wire running along one side of the fuel tank you will need 3 clips, if they run wires on both sides of the fuel tank you will need 6.
If you are installing the accessory plug under the tail lamp and you need a new rubber boot, order Steiner #ABC2285 @ $4.95.
Question: I noticed this Ferguson Spanner on EBAY, “Ferguson Spanner Wrench New Reproduction Brass Tractor TE20 , TEF20, TED20”. Is this a reproduction spanner? January 4, 2016.
Answer: AGCO began selling the Ferguson wrench again a few years back. It is being sold in old Ferguson logo packaging. The wrench was and possibly still is available from AGCO/Massey Ferguson dealers in the UK. At approximately the same time AGCO/Massey Ferguson began selling the original Ferguson gray paint in quarts with old Ferguson style labeling. These items have not been offered for sale in the US, which I believe says something about the strength of the collector market in the UK. Apparently AGCO-USA does not recognize the Ferguson collector market here. I suspect the wrenches offered for sale in the ebay listing are some of the aforementioned “new” Ferguson wrenches that some dealer has had plated in brass or that AGCO/UK has issued a special edition of this wrench in brass plated finish.
Question: Are OEM parts better? I have heard some say definitely yes, and others say no. January 2, 2016.
Answer: My answer is a conditional yes, OEM parts are often better made and well worth the extra expense, but sometimes they are not.
Years ago when companies like Massey Ferguson were independent with a history of quality products I would have said OEM parts are better, often more costly, but usually worth the price. Today with companies like AGCO having acquired multiple brands like Allis Chalmers, Massey Ferguson, Minneapolis Moline, Oliver, White, New Idea, and others, the collective minds of engineers of those individual companies with their product knowledge of an individual brand is pretty much gone.
The parts business is now driven by bean counters interested only in the bottom line for each part. Original tooling capable of duplicating original parts has often been lost or scrapped. Many parts are now reverse engineered by companies in India, Poland, Korea, Yugoslavia, Japan and China. OEM branded parts are now sourced from suppliers providing those same parts to after-market parts dealers.
Inventories of old original parts still exist and are still in the possession of the successor companies or NOS parts warehouse suppliers, but they are shrinking. Purchasing those “original” parts pretty much guarantees the replacement part will be the same quality as the original part.
Once those “original” parts supplies are exhausted, the current company must decide if there is enough demand for the part to continue supplying it, and if there is, who will supply it. If they have the original tooling to produce the part, who do they get to reproduce it? Because most of the original production facilities are gone, they cannot reproduce the part if they in fact produced it in the first place.
A typical example of a group of OEM fast moving parts that are now no different than those purchased from after-market parts suppliers is carburetor parts. As tractor manufacturers phased out gas engines. companies like Marvel Schebler and Carter either went out of business or were sold to other companies that discontinued production of both carburetors and repair parts. Many of the tractor manufacturers further accelerated the downfall of those companies as they began purchasing carburetor parts, which are significant repair parts items, from after-market suppliers in an attempt to cut costs. Companies like Marvel Schebler and Carter not only lost the OEM business for carburetors for new tractors, but the lucrative repair parts business. Those original Marvel Schebler and Carter parts were not only better made but more complete than the offerings of after-market suppliers.
The after-market parts work, but in many cases, just work and are incomplete. Have you tried to purchase a choke shaft for a Marvel Schebler carburetor for a TO-20, TO-30, TO-35, or MF-35 in the last 25-30 years or how about anything other than a float valve for a Carter carburetor tor those same models? So, when it comes to carburetor parts, after-market parts are often no different than parts from the tractor manufacturer and the parts from after-market parts suppliers are often less expensive.
If you can find an OEM lower lift arm for your Ferguson you will usually find the additional cost well worth it. After-market lift arms vary from copies made from mild steel with weld on ball ends that bend like pretzels to those that resemble the OEM version but more often than not, do not possess the strength of the original. Finding an OEM original or a good used part is well worth the effort required.
Then there are the parts OEM manufacturers originally purchased from outside suppliers who now produce those same parts for the after-market. As purchases by OEM manufacturers declined as farms and the demand for farm equipment declined, many manufacturers offered those same original parts or parts with minor differences to after-market parts suppliers. When you can positively identify those parts you will sometimes find it costs less to purchase those parts from an after-market parts supplier.
Question: I was just looking through the Jan 2016 issue of Ferguson Furrows and saw a brush guard on Larry Steed’s Ferguson 40. Is it OEM or was it a fabricated by someone? I really like the style and would to get one for my TO-35 . January 1, 2016.
Answer: The “brush guard” or front bumper is a popular after-market accessory. The bumper is not a genuine Ferguson/Massey Ferguson accessory but many have been sold by Ferguson/Massey Ferguson and other dealers. Used ones can often be found on ebay, Craig’s List, and at tractor salvage yards. They are also still available new from after-market parts stores. There are three versions I am aware of. One of the versions is designed to be used with the swept back front axles used on the TO-35, MF-35, MF-135. MF-235, TO-30, TO-20, TE/TEA-20 and many Ford models beginning with the 9N. Another version is designed to fit straight axles as used on the F-40 and the last version comes with an assortment of mounting brackets to allow the bumper to fit almost any tractor.
Question: I have my grandfathers TO 30 tractor and draw bar. How can I tell if it is a genuine Ferguson draw bar? December 27, 2015
Answer: The original TO-30 cross draw bar will have a TO-XXXX number molded into the 9 hole cross draw bar. The original Ferguson upper stays are thicker and stronger than the upper stays that originally came with the 9N, 2N, 8N, NAA, etc. The original Ferguson and Ford cross draw bars are unbelievably strong. The after-market cross draw bars are made of softer steel and the cheapest ones have link pins that are fitted into drilled holes in the cross draw bar and welded.
The slightly better quality after-market cross draw bars are made from a single piece of stock with the pins turned down the rectangular draw bar stock. These better quality after-market draw bars still are not as strong as the originals. The original ones are either cast or forged steel with a seam mark along the edge of the flat part.
The original “horseshoe” draw bars are fairly easy to identify by just looking at them. The “V” draw bars are also fairly easy to identify by looking at them. The “V” draw bars are made from two pieces of rectangular stock with a welding seam between the hitch hole and the two holes for attaching the “V” to the cross draw bar.
There is an after-market version of the “V” draw bar made by Red Rock Manufacturing. The Red Rock version is cut from a single piece of stock, laser cut I believe.
The swinging draw bar that uses a support hanger that hangs from the 4 studs around the PTO housing where the check-chain brackets attach is the most common after-market swinging draw bar. This draw bar is very similar to the original Ford design with the exception of the plate under the rear axle housing.
The after-market version uses a pin to hold the draw bar tongue that fits in a pipe or sleeve welded to the bottom of the plate. This sleeve has a cross-drilled hole for a linch pin which holds the draw bar pin in position.
The original Ford versions are stepped down in the middle so there is room between the top of the plate and the bottom of the rear axle-housing. The original style Ford pin has a groove in it for a hair pin.
There are other after-market swinging draw bars but these are relatively rare today. A few additional things. Original Ford cross draw bars are as strong as the original Ferguson cross draw bars except they have a 9N-XXXX part number molded into them. They also have the same seam along the edge. The very earliest 9N cross draw bars are slightly narrower, as in the stock the bar is made from, than the later design which is the same as the original Ferguson version or later MHF version. The MHF version has an MHF part number ending in M1.
The after-market draw bars that mimic the Ford design are much softer steel. The hangers and the tongue will bend when sufficient force is applied.
The original Ford draw bar tongues do not bend and the hangers are very strong and made from two pieces of material riveted together.
There are also several versions of the original hangers, made to fit different models. The original Ford hangers have different drop heights which are needed to fit some models, the 800 series tractors for instance.
The tongues of the after-market draw bars will bend easily when subjected to strong side forces. I recall a neighbor purchasing one of these after-market draw bars for his TO-35 to pull an International PTO operated combine. The first time he pulled the combine on a hillside the draw bar developed a significant bend. He was less than pleased needless to say and surprised to find the after-market version was so much weaker than the original Ford version on his neighbors tractor.
Question: Did Ferguson make a horseshoe drawbar? December 17, 2015.
Answer: The Ferguson horseshoe draw bar and the clevis assembly to attach it to the tractor, has one of its earliest known appearances in a photograph of one of the first TE-20’s, taken in 1946. The photo shows Harry Ferguson and Sir John Black seated behind a TE-20. That photo can be found on page 65 of The Ferguson Tractor Story by Stuart Gibbard, published by Old Pond Publishing.
Sir John Black, as you may know, was the managing director of the Standard Motor Company in Coventry. The TE-20 in that picture clearly shows the clevis for the horseshoe draw bar mounted to the bottom of the rear axle housing.
The mounting holes for the draw bar clevis were included in the original TE-20 design. That same bolt pattern with its 5/8″ NC holes became standard on all Ferguson and Massey Ferguson tractors beginning with the TE-20 through the Massey Ferguson 100 series tractors. The hole size was increased to 3/4″ NC during 100 series production.
The horseshoe draw bar clevis is unique in that it includes a 1 1/8″ pin with a locking lever that fits in a notch at the rear of the clevis. The bottom plate of the clevis includes two holes for the pins on the bottom of the horseshoe draw bar and a block with ears that mates with the ears on the open ends of the horseshoe draw bar.
The horseshoe draw bar and the mounting clevis were Ferguson, and then Massey Ferguson accessories until the 1980’s. Interestingly, when the 8N went into production, the same 5/8″ NC holes in the same bolt pattern that first appeared on the TE-20 at the bottom of the rear axle housing, were in the same location on the bottom of the new 8N model. The draw bar clevis that came on the new 8N does not have the two holes in the bottom plate for the pins on the horseshoe draw bar nor does it have the block and ears at the front of the clevis to mate with the ears on the horseshoe draw bar so the red draw bar in the two pictures you sent will not attach to the regular Ford 8N clevis. Neither the horseshoe draw bar nor the special clevis to mount it appear in any Dear born Motors or Ford tractor parts book that I have ever seen.
Now, here comes the dilemma or unexplained mystery, a picture of the horseshoe draw bar appears in a Ford tractor accessory brochure from the 1950’s and a picture of the same draw bar mounted on a Ford 8N appeared in an agricultural engineering textbook from the 1960’s I used at Michigan State University in 1965. The caption on the photo said it came from Ford’s Tractor and Implement Division. Here are the questions that I have had for years. Why doesn’t the horseshoe draw bar or the clevis to attach it appear in any Ford parts book that I am aware of? Why, other than the picture in that Ford tractor Accessories brochure, haven’t I seen the horseshoe draw bar anywhere else in Ford or Dearborn literature or on any Ford tractor or in any Ford dealership? The horseshoe draw bar is shown in operator’s manuals, parts books and sales literature for Ferguson and Massey Ferguson tractors, implements and accessories beginning with the TE-20.
My hypothesis has always been the horseshoe draw bar and its mounting clevis were made by an outside supplier, as were many of the accessories, originally offered by that manufacturer to both the Ferguson and Ford companies. Ferguson bought the draw bar and likely all rights to it. Is that the reason I’ve never seen the horseshoe draw bar and the clevis that goes with it as a Ford or Dearborn part, or in a Ford of Dearborn parts book?
Remember Ferguson and Ford had a similar situation with the Dearborn Pitman mower manufactured by Detroit Harvester. That mower was originally sold as a Ferguson mower during the Ford Ferguson era and then exactly the same mower was sold by both the Ford or Dearborn and Ferguson companies until Ferguson claimed they (Ferguson) owned the rights to the design. Detroit Harvester then created a modified version of that mower with a far more complicated hitch for Ford Dearborn. Interestingly Detroit Harvester also produced a mower using most of the same components for J.I. Case for their VAC tractor. A similar situation occurred with the side mounted mower Detroit Harvester made for both Ford and Ferguson. Ford apparently claimed the rights to the side mounted mower and continued to sell it while it was removed from the Ferguson line, replaced by the new Ferguson Dyna-balance side mounted mower. Many if not all of the components for Ferguson’s Dyna-balance mower were also produced by Detroit Harvester.
Another similar situation occurred with the pull type disc produced by Roderick Lean as a Ferguson implement during the Ford Ferguson era. After the split, Roderick Lean produced the same disc with its unique 3 point hitch draw bar that angled and straightened the gangs for both Ford Dearborn and Ferguson. Again, Ferguson apparently claimed the rights to the design and continued to sell the same disc for a time while a different design was produced for Ford Dearborn.
Similar situations occurred with the belt pulley drives, standard cross draw bar, top links, and stabilizer bar brackets produced by outside suppliers for both Ford and Ferguson. Again these are all fascinating aspects of the history or the Ford and Ferguson companies.
Q: Is, or was, there an official Ferguson front bumper? Or perhaps a recommended bumper? September 28, 2015.
A: There never was a genuine Ferguson bumper accessory. There was an official Ford Ferguson bumper accessory. It looked like a car bumper and was likely developed from a Ford car or pickup bumper. That answer my be questioned my some who will argue a certain bumper or other accessory was sold by a Ferguson dealer as an official accessory for the Ferguson tractor.
The confusion about what is or isn’t a genuine Ferguson bumper exists because the “Distributors” supplying Ferguson tractors, implement, and accessories to Ferguson dealers also sold accessories, and even implements from sources other than Harry Ferguson, Inc. These accessories and even implements were often painted gray to match genuine Ferguson equipment.
Bumpers were made by a number of different companies. Because of the tip up hood on the TE-20s, TO-20s and TO-30s, bumpers that would either tip down or clear the hood when it was opened were considered by many to be genuine Ferguson accessories. Bumpers made to fit the Ford Ferguson 9N/2N, 8N and NAA didn’t usually allow the hoods on Fergusons to be opened fully.
Question: I am looking to mount a post-hole digger on my TO-30 with 3 point hitch. Any input into where to start looking for an appropriate model?
Answer: I am not that familiar with everything that is out there today. I do know I looked into this several years ago when I was considering the purchase of a new post hole digger for my own use and concluded the Danuser lighter weight digger was about right for my TO-30. The major concern was to find a model that is not to heavy to lift, is well constructed of durable materials, and that has an easy to disconnect PTO shaft. Without live hydraulics that operate independent of the PTO, as on the TO-20 and TO-30, you have to disconnect the PTO to lift the digger without turning the auger. This can be necessary if the auger becomes jammed and won’t turn.
Q: I am rebuilding a fender light, the fenders, and the front wheels on my F-40; can you give me any advice before I proceed?
A: Glad to hear the parts arrived. There is everything there to rebuild the taillight including the socket assembly. The old socket assembly can be carefully pressed out of the shell and the new one pressed in. Do not attempt to do this anyway other than with a press and proper supports or you will damage the shell.
As for your fenders, it sounds like you know the braces were painted a different color than the fender skins. The braces were painted MF Flint Gray actually, which is different than MF Flint Metallic Gray which is the color used on the castings and engine. The color charts on the FENA website will tell you the other items painted MF Flint Gray.
You can approximate the look of the original rivets if you use rib necked bolts or carriage bolts that are modified by grinding down the flats slightly, as you may already know.
If you are going to install the headlight brackets on the front of the fenders, the bolt holes should be enlarged to fit the larger diameter carriage bolts that hold the brackets on. That should already be done since your tractor had these brackets on it already.
Regarding the front wheels on your F-40. The wheels are installed using the wrong holes. The wheels are currently bolted through the holes that are supposed to be used when the wheels are reverse mounted. Those holes are not tapered or countersunk to fit the taper on the lug nuts, though they may now have some taper because the lug nuts were tightened against them.
You may want to consider getting some new lug nuts for both the front and rear wheels. Exact duplicates of the originals, 1 1/16” wrench size, in the original yellow zinc finish are available from anyone selling TISCO Parts.
Q: Can you tell me what the square, “C” shaped bracket bolted to the left rear tail lamp of my F40 is? I have several of those brackets off of different tractors and have no clue as to what their purpose is. June 20, 2015.
A: The square, C shaped bracket attached to the left tail-light bracket is a mounting bracket for a Slow Moving Vehicle, SMV sign mounted on a pole. The pole can be raised and lowered as needed to be seen. The thumb screw on the bracket holds the sign pole in position. The slow moving vehicle signs, and various mounting brackets can usually be found in farm stores and in catalogs under tractor accessories. See the link below.
The brackets to attach the headlights to the front of the fenders were sold in a Massey Ferguson accessory kit along with the visors for the headlights. These kits allowed you to move the headlights from the sides of the front of the hood to the rear fenders. Front, hood mounted headlights normally have to be removed when a loader is installed. The Ferguson 40 was also available with fender mounted headlights but those headlights were small in diameter and used different mounting brackets. If you are not going to install a loader on this tractor you may want to move the headlights back to the original mounting position on the sides of the hood. The visors on the headlights should also be removed if you move them to the original position.
Q: I saw these work lamps on EBAY: “Hall Visor Light Pair Massey Ferguson TO 35 F40 50 65 85 88 90 754666M1 http://r.ebay.com/OBvyuu.” The seller claims they are HALL visor headlights for a TO35. Is he correct?
A: Yes, this Hall lamp design was introduced around 1961 or 1962. They replaced the Hall lamp with the bezel attached with 2 screws. The new design has a shell that is a bit deeper than the earlier design. The ball assembly in the headlight shell is very similar to, if not identical to, the design used in the earlier Hall design.
There was a new combination work light/taillight design that accompanied this new headlight design that has a red plastic hood that tips down over the sealed beam to create a taillight. The red hood is flipped back over the shell when the light is being used as a work light. The new combination work light/taillight was mounted on the left fender. These new design headlights were used in the last series of two digit tractors, MF-25, 35, 50, 65, 85, 88, Super 90. and the tractors produced for Massey Ferguson by Oliver and Minneapolis Moline.
Q: I have a 1950 TO20 I use to haul a trailer, and move my boat around. Does Ferguson have an attachment to the swing arm that will prevent the drawbar from turning over? May 30, 2015.
A: Two versions of the device you are describing are currently being reproduced. The first one is available from Dennis Carpenter Ford Tractor Parts as well as many other after-market parts sellers including Steiner Tractor Parts. Check prices as they vary. See the link below: http://dennis-carpenter.com/drawbar-lock/p/9N-5182-L/
Another version which is more compact, fits over the end of the drawbar and the end of the lift arm. I believe that version is available from Red Rock Manufacturing, Pella, Iowa.
Q: I put a 20 amp. inline fuse near the starter solenoid on the hot wire, and I am planning on another for the lights. Is ten amps enough for two headlights, a work light, and a tail lamp? April 13, 2015.
A: These tractors use a 20 amp. fuse for the lights. No fuse is normally used in the electrical system. I don’t have a reason for adding a fuse to the tractor wiring.
Q: I started to mount the wings for the headlights on the bonnet of out TEA tractor; I’m not sure what the original right position is. As seen in the drawings http://fergusontractors.org/fena/ there seems no measurement for the mounting holes? Do you know the right measurements for the headlight mounting holes on TE/TO 20 tractors? March 06, 2015.
A: You are correct, none of the TE models had knockouts for mounting headlights. All TO models had knockouts until around the time the TO-35 became the MF-35. The MF-35 had removable plugs rather than knockouts. I believe the earliest versions of the headlight mounting instructions had the dimensions on the drawing. I am sending this email to a number or our board members and hoping that one of them can take measurements from a TO-20 or TO-30 hood and provide them to us. It would probably be easier to measure the position of the knockouts on a hood that does not have headlights.
Q: Sir, I have a chance to buy a nice PTO Extension, including the shield. It still has a good bit of gray paint on it, and moves freely. Is that a fairly rare accessory? The guy wants $75. for it plus shipping cost. Does that sound like a good deal? February 18, 2015.
A: The price doesn’t sound bad if it’s in good condition. Carefully inspect the internal and external splines for wear. The internal or female splines are the ones that usually show the most wear. Also check to make sure the internal splines are the proper size for you tractor PTO. There were two versions of the long extension which is normally used with the “V” type extension drawbar. The later version came with either 11/8″ or 1 3/8″ internal splines. The 11/8″ internal spline was for tractors originally equipped with 1 1/8″ PTO shafts like the TE/TO-20 and TO-30 as well as the Ford 9N, 2N, 8N, NAA and hundred series Fords. The internal spline segment is replaceable but the current MF price is approximately $75. The Ford price is similar. The long extension was sold by both Ford and Ferguson dealers. There is also a short version which was used with the horse shoe drawbar. The internal spline on these short extensions is not replaceable and if it is worn the only option is some expensive machine shop work to rebuild the splines. And if that was not complicated enough, there are some intermediate length extensions which were are used with high clearance tractors like the F-40, MH-50, and MF-50. These were only made with 1 3/8″ female splines. All the extensions have 1 3/8″ external splines. Check the bearings. If they grind or the shaft does not rotate smoothly the bearings will have to be replaces which is an additional expense. All the extensions have bearings though they are not all the same.
Q: Thank you for your help on finding the tube for headlamp wire. Please email me the name, address, and phone number of place that has clips for the tube. If you find the magazine article on how to make them, let me know. Thanks again for the help. February 5, 2015.
A: The tube and of course the wiring harness is available from Agri-Services.. http://www.wiringharnesses.com/. As for the wiring clips, I’ll see I can locate the information you want.
Q: Last summer we installed a Sherman step-up transmission in our TE-20. It runs great, no noise untill I wanted to start up out saw bench… (PTO driven, not by belt) When I started up the saw bench there was a ‘knocking’ sound that definitely came out the Sheman transmission. Is this known by you guys? What could be wrong?
A: Do you remember if you checked the preload on the input shaft as instructed in the original installation instructions? Shims are installed or removed as needed to obtain the proper preload on the transmission input shaft bearings. Failure to do this will cause there to be excess end play in the shaft and the bearings to rattle around in their races. I believe there is a copy of the original installation instructions on the web site. If not, the web site authors should be able to provide them as they are pretty much the authority on these transmissions today. There are also bearings in the Sherman unit itself that may need to be checked and replaced as needed. Instructions for rebuilding the Sherman transmission can be found on the web site. Parts to rebuild the transmission are also available on the web site as well as from Red Rock Manufacturing. Other possibilities include the proper alignment of the universal joints on the PTO shaft on your saw. I the universal joints are not in proper alignment, they will make a snapping noise as they turn when the PTO shaft is at an angle. Still another possibility is that the saw blade is acting like a flywheel and trying to over-speed the transmission. The usual solution for over-speeding is to install an over-running clutch. All things considered, I think there is a strong possibility you will find the problem is in the preload on the input shaft bearings.
Q: I got a pair of original headlamps, but now I am wondering about the late 35 work lamp/tail light combination. Am I correct that my 35 (1955) came with a red lamp on the left and a work lamp on the right? Also, are the headlamp wings painted the hood color, or are they left as polished aluminum? November 7, 2014.
A: The wings are always painted to match the hood sheet metal to which they are attached. If your 35 has a red hood, the wings should be painted red, earlier versions would have been painted bamboo beige, light Ferguson gray, and industrial yellow, depending on the hood color. As for the correct rear lights, the original light set for a TO-35 would have come with a red taillight for the left fender and a work light with a switch for the right fender. The earliest gray/green TO-35s used a Taurus taillight.
Around the time the electrical system was changed from 6 to 12 volts, the light kits started coming with Hall taillights. The first ones were light gray to match the gray sheet metal on the gray/green TO-35s, and the bamboo beige when the colors were changed to match the Ferguson 40 and then red when the Massey Harris and Ferguson lines were combined and the Massey Ferguson line debuted. The early MHF Work Bull tractors which were industrial model 35s had industrial yellow taillights to match the sheet metal colors.
Q: I am getting ready to restore a Ferguson model 40. The headlamps and brackets are red, they appear original . All the pics on the internet are Tan. Can red be correct for this restoration? September 21, 2014.
A: The lights are correct for you F-40 but the color is not. This same lighting kit was made in at least 3 different colors and possibly as many as 5. The kits were the same except for the colors. It is likely that when whoever owned this F-40 decided to install lights on it, or asked the dealer to install lights, lights painted the F-40 Bamboo Beige were not available. When the supply of Bamboo Beige kits were no longer available, kits painted MF red were substituted.
At the time the F-40 was being produced Massey Harris Ferguson was supplying this kit in Ferguson Light Gray for the TO-35 and early production green and metallic green F-40 tractors, Massey Harris Red for the MH-50 and Bamboo Beige for the F-40. When the two line policy was abandoned and the tractors became Massey Ferguson, the kits were supplied in Massey Ferguson Red. When the production of Industrial Tractors like the MHF Work Bull began the kits were also supplied in MF Industrial Yellow.
The question is are these lights painted Massey Harris Red or Massey Ferguson Red? The lighting kits for the F-40, MH-50 and MF-50 were all identical and came with the same wiring harness. Actually that is really immaterial since you are going to restore this tractor. All the lights and mounting brackets should be painted Bamboo Beige to match the sheet metal on the tractor. The lighting kit for the TO-35 and Work Bull tractors was nearly identical to the F-40, MH-50, MF-50 kit except for the front wiring harness.
Q: Attached you will see a pic of a 1958 MF-50 single wheel with lights. Here is my question? Are the forward lights mounted on the fenders original factory placement or did the owner just throw them on there for convenience? I have seen the same placement on some Ferguson 40’s but again question whether they are factory original? The pic of the Ferguson HI-40 single wheel has the lights on the front and I know that is factory original. September 15, 2014.
A: The lights on the MF-50 look like they may be the original small ones. The ones on the F-40 look like the later style I have. There were fender mounted lights for the TO-35. F-40, MH-50 and MF-50. The fender mounted lights were and option along with the hood mounted lights.
In some cases, two sets of lights were mounted on the tractor. The fender mounted lights worked well when a loader was installed or a corn picker. The original fender mounted lights were smaller than the hood mounted lights but similar looking. These original fender mounted lights used a hinged bracket that sort of wrapped over the top of the fender.
The only parts book I recall that shows these lights is the MF-50 parts book, I don’t recall them being in any 35 or 40 parts book. If you don’t have one, I will scan the pages and send them to you so you can see the brackets.
Later MF came up with a different fender brackets for the headlights. There were two versions, cast for the industrial models and chrome plated alloy for the Ag tractors. These are the brackets I sell and they are intended to be used with the original larger headlamp assemblies.
There are some pieces of literature that show the original small fender mounted lights lights and I can send you copies of the pictures from those if you like. I remember the sales brochure for the new farm loader that came out about the time of the TO-35 showed the fender mounted lights on the TO-35 and I think they are shown in the F-40 sales brochure.
Q: What was the “standard” set up for pulling implements? Did they use a draw bar mounted under the tractor or did they use a draw bar with the lifting arms? August 12, 2014
A: The draw bar that came with the Ferguson TE-20, TEA-20, TO-20, TO-30, TO-35 and F-40 was the cross draw bar with upper stay bars. The cross draw bar attaches to the lift links and the upper stay bars are attached to either the top link bracket or the hinged long pin just below it. This draw bar was ok for pulling things but not particularly well suited to PTO operated implements.
Optional draw bars were offered for this purpose. The horseshoe style swinging draw bar and V extension draw bar were optional draw bars for all of these tractors. Both of these optional draw bars had PTO extensions to go with them to provide a draw bar and PTO that meet ASAE standards.
The swinging draw bar that mounts under the rear axle center housing came standard on the MF-65 and later was offered an accessory for the TO-35 and F-40. Late in the MF-35 and MF-50 production, this swinging draw bar became standard equipment and the cross draw bar and upper stay links became accessories.
Q: Mr. Sybrandy, my name is Greg Brown. I have inherited a Ferguson 35 Deluxe. The owner, my father in-law, passed away in 2001. In his (my) shop building has been this old tractor that I decided to finally move. I prepared it for towing, but a neighbor saw me working on it and suggested that I just charge the battery and start it. Well, it not only started but runs well, the hydraulics work (it has a Ford front loader) and seems to enjoy getting out in the sunshine again. It is a strange variation that I’ve not been able to find any picture or record of: Its headlights are on top of the hood, not on the side as all the pics I’ve seen. It’s kinda like Mickey Mouse ears…… I was wondering if this is original or someone modded it during its long lifetime.
A: The standard position for the headlights was on the dog legs at the sides of the hood where the holes or knockouts are located. The alternate position was on the front of the fenders.There are 4 different brackets used to mount the headlights in this position.
1. When the TO-35 in gray and metallic green first came out the factory recommended using a set of brackets the same as used to mount the taillight and work light. This is outlined in the manual for the Ferguson manure loader.
2. When the F-40 came out and the TO-35 colors were changed to bamboo beige and flint metallic gray a set of smaller headlights were available with a hinged mounts for mounting on the rear fenders. The very first 35 Workbull tractors, which were modified TO-35s, also had their headlights mounted with these brackets.
3. When the TO-35 colors were changed to red and flint metallic gray a kit that included 2 chrome mounting brackets, a pair of eyebrow hoods and hardware was available for mounting the standard full size headlights on the rear fenders. I still have those kits, minus the eyebrows, if you are interested. The eyebrows are still available as parts.
4. Cast iron brackets, similar to the chrome ones that came in the kit for the ag tractor were used to mount the headlights on the rear fenders of Workbull and Utility models based on the TO-35. These cast iron brackets could be purchased as parts and were sometimes used on 35 models with loaders.
An accessory for overseas models of the Ferguson included a single headlight bracket to install a single headlight at the top center of the hood, on the raised ridge. This light was often referred to as the “cyclops light.” Mounting a loader on a 35 usually means the headlights cannot be mounted on the sides of the hood. Many loader manufacturers provided mounting brackets on the loader frame where the headlights could be mounted, This was often just forward of the steering wheel. Mounting the headlights on top of the hood like Mickey Mouse ears was done but I am not aware of anything in any Ferguson manual suggesting this as a mounting point, but it does work. You can see headlights mounted in this position on tractors here in the US as well as overseas.
Q: I have a late model 1956 Ferguson TO35 and I was wondering if you can tell me which type of Drawbar support bracket it should have? I have seen the type that mounts all below the rear end and another type that has a vertical support mounted around the PTO area. May 12, 2014
A: The original swinging drawbar for the TO-35 is part number 677 013 which requires the clevis assembly 677 012. When the MF-35 was introduced the swinging drawbar (part number 677 191) became the standard swinging drawbar. This drawbar could also be mounted on the TO-35. I believe this is the drawbar that you are referring to when you say “the one that has the support bracket that mounts all below the rear end.”
The type that has the hanger assembly mounted around the PTO area and the plate under the rear axle housing is a Ford design that became standard equipment on Ford tractors beginning with the 600 and 800 series. A less expensive after market version is sold today but it is not nearly as strong as the original Ford version. These after market versions have been known to bend and twist when heavy loads are applied.
The V extension drawbar was originally sold as an accessory for the Ford Ferguson 9N and 2N and then continued to be sold by both Ford and Ferguson. The V extension drawbar is correct for the Ferguson TO-35 also. All of these drawbars can be found for sale on Ebay and at various swap meets and farm sales.
Q: I was at a tractor show recently and saw some sort of metal loop/spring on the left brake. What is it? April 28, 2014.
A: That’s a Brake Hand Lever. It came in Kit # A-TO-74 or MF # 181 861 M91. This accessory allowed the operator to engage the left-turning brake while operating the clutch. Because the left-turning brake and the clutch pedal are both on the left side of the tractor it is impossible to use your foot to operate the left brake and the clutch at the same time. I’d really like to have one of these if you ever come across one. A similar handle was available for the Ford Ferguson 9N and 2N. There are two versions of that handle, one with a long handle and one with a short handle.
Q: 04/24/’14. One of my stabilizer bars has a safety chain I have never seen before. It’s the same light duty chain that the linch pins are clipped to the tractor with. The chain measures 36″ long total, and has an oval sheet metal placard in the middle. The placard reads: “WARNING To Avoid Damage to Pump Put Control Lever Fully Down and the Wedge Under Stopper”. I don’t remember this item on the new TO-30 I grew up on at our NW Pa. farm. If it was original equipment, it may have been discarded. Was this chain/placard/end clips standard original equipment?
A: What you have is a “Chain and Wedge Assembly.” These came with all Ferguson TO-30s as well as TE/TEA/TE0-20s and Ford Ferguson 9Ns and 2Ns. They also came with Ford tractors. The purpose of the chain and wedge assembly is to prevent the lift arms from being raised when the standard drawbar and upper stays were installed. This could happen if the PTO was operating. The lighter drawbar stays that came on the 9N and 2N were usually crushed when this happened. The chain is attached to the top bolt on the right drawbar stay. The only time you did not use the chain and wedge assembly is when the auxiliary hydraulic drop valve assembly was installed to operate the lift cylinder on the Belle City Corn Picker. I’ve enclosed a copy of the section of the TO-30 Operator’s Manual that explains the installation of the chain and wedge assembly.
Q: We have acquired my grandfathers 1952 TO 30 Ferguson tractor and some of the implements he had. We are trying to go through it and do oil changes etc. on the tractor. We have the operator and service manuals for the tractor itself. However it has a WAGNER WM4 loader on it & we can not find any manuals on it to do the fluid and filter changes on it and it’s running system. Do you have any sources for us to find this information?
A: I am attaching a copy of the manual for the Wagner WM4 loader and a link to a generic manual from Wagner that covers most of their loaders including the W-3 and the WM-3. This manual refers to installing the loader on Ford tractors but the information on the loader is the same.
There is a strainer/filter, near the hydraulic pump, that should be cleaned periodically. The manual says to use Wagner Hydraulic oil. Wagner brand oil is no longer available but there are substitutes. From the information I have been able to gather it appears that you should be able to operate your loader on either regular motor oil in the appropriate weight for the season, or on Automatic Transmission fluid.
A manual for a Ford Dearborn 19-22 loader which is nearly identical to the Wagner and I believe was made for Ford by Wagner Iron Works says to use: 30 wt motor oil in temps of 90 degrees and above 20 wt motor oil in temps of 32 degrees to 90 degrees 20W wt motor oil in temps of 10 degrees to 32 degrees 10wt motor oil in temps of -10 degrees to +10 degrees 20 wt The 20W oil would be the best general use weight to use — automatic transmission fluid would be about the same.
I would suggest draining all the oil in the system before you add automatic transmission fluid as there are different types of automatic transmission fluid, which is usually red, and mixing them can cause problems. Similarly, not knowing what the existing oil is in the loader, I would suggest draining it as well before refilling with one of the above motor oils.
To drain the system you should leave the drain plug out or the return line off at the pump for at least 24 hours. I am sending you the instructions for filling and purging the air from the hydraulic system. I did locate a set of instructions for mounting your loader on a TO-30 and can send them to you if you like.
Q: I have a US built MF 135. It has a two-way auxiliary unit mounted with two external couplers. Is there a manual for this unit? Does the hitch work separately from the auxiliary unit? As the tractor is running the lift arms don’t respond on the levers anymore but, as I raise the lever of external cylinder no. 1 the lift arms raise or go down. When the hoses are attached to external no. 2 they work okay.
A: Yes, there is a manual for the auxiliary hydraulic valve. I will scan it and send it to you. When the controls on the 3 point lift quadrant are set for constant pumping, the left hand lever on the auxiliary valve will then be used to operate the 3 point hitch linkage.
To operate the 3 point hitch linkage with the controls on the three point lift quadrant, take the “Position Control Lever” out of the “Constant Pumping” position. Move the left hand lever on the auxiliary valve to the rear or lift position. The three point hitch can now be operated using the levers on the three point lift control quadrant.The draft control can also be used in this position.
If the left lever on the auxiliary control valve keeps popping back to the neutral or middle position, loosen the lock nut and turn the screw on the detent spring in to put more pressure on the detent spring. I also noticed you have the hoses for the couplers connected to the left spool of the auxiliary valve. Normally when you have one set of hoses they are to be connected to the right spool. That will allow the left spool to be used to control the three point hitch, and the right spool to operate the auxiliary cylinders.