Question: Can you tell me a good approach to breaking free a stuck draft control spring? June 1, 2016.
Answer: The operator’s manual directs owners to disconnect the top link rocker, unscrew the turnbuckle, and grease the threads every six months. Today anti-seize compound is far superior to grease. Sadly, this simple maintenance procedure was, and is often ignored.
Most of the Ferguson system tractors today have not had their turnbuckles unscrewed in what could be up to more than 75 years. That means the threads on your turnbuckle and plunger are likely frozen with rust.
As rugged as the top link rocker and control spring appear, the components at the other end of the threaded control plunger are fragile and easily damaged. Disconnecting and removing the top link rocker and applying force to the turnbuckle is likely to bend or break the upper and lower forks and likely the control valve.
The best solution is to remove the top cover after disconnecting the top link rocker,and the control valve at the bottom of the lower fork assembly. Once the top cover is removed you will be able to remove the clevis pin that attaches the plunger to the upper fork, remove the three bolts securing the lift spring seat support, support plate, plunger, and control spring assembly. With the control spring assembly removed you can begin applying penetrating oil and hopefully be able to unscrew the turnbuckle from the plunger. Be patient, you should be prepared to apply penetrating oil for several days.
With the assembly removed you should also be able to carefully apply heat to break the threads free. You may not be able to unscrew the threads and if not your only option is to cut the plunger with a hacksaw. You will then have to purchase a new turnbuckle and plunger.
Different threads have been used on the turnbuckle and plunger assemblies over the years so be sure you purchase a matched assembly from the same source. After-market parts are available and the same parts are used on the Ford Ferguson 9N, 2N, TE/TEA-20 and TO-30. Many of these after-market parts will also fit the Ford 8N.
Again, as long as the turnbuckle and plunger are from the same source and a matched set, they will work. You should also replace the felt dust seal on the plunger. It is also possible the lift spring seat support is badly rusted and will have to be replaced. Again, these are available from after-market sources. Check the spacer and seat support and if badly rusted they may also have to be replaced.
The Ferguson version is two pieces while the Ford version is a single piece. The two piece assembly can be replaced with the single piece version. After rebuilding the control spring assembly, reassemble the top cover and reinstall. Make sure you use a new gasket under the top cover. Once assembly is completed you can adjust the control spring and quadrant as described in the operator’s and shop manuals.
Question: Can I install a new Hydraulic Control Valve with the engine running, and is there an easy way to get the forks back over the T of the control valve? May 14, 2016.
Answer: NEVER attempt to work on the pump while it’s running is the general rule though there are a few exceptions involving the control valve on later Ferguson System tractors. As for getting the square piece seated in the oscillator piece in the pump. You can rotate the PTO shaft from the back of the tractor while the PTO is out of gear to assist in seating the square piece.Check ebay, I have seen used valves including the rod and square piece for sale.
Getting the forks on and off the dog bone portion of the valve can be a challenge. Ferguson did offer a spreader tool for this purpose but they are no longer available, and very difficult to find used.
There is an English version of this tool which is simpler than the US version. The English version is a notched bar that fits between the legs of the fork to hold it in the open position. The notched bar has a U shaped depression in the middle, and a piece of chain attached which is secured on the outside of the inspection cover opening. The chain allows you to retrieve the spreader if it pops out and drops down into the oil.
Question: I have a new hydraulic control replacement valve and it is different from the old one I just removed. (Which has a long rod on the end of it). Will the new one they just sent me work? And what is the purpose of the long rod and square piece on the end of it?
Answer: The square piece and rod are part of the oscillator. The square piece fits in a cam on the pump crankshaft that reciprocates. This causes the valve to rotate back and forth to keep the valve from sticking. The valve occasionally sticks on earlier models so the oscillator was added to the TO-30 and late production TEA-20 models. As I recall, the replacement valves are notched to accept the oscillator. You should be able to remove the snap ring in the valve, install the oscillator from your old valve and reinstall the snap ring.
Question: I’ve been searching desperately for a fork stabilizer for my 1953 TO 30 hydraulic lift system (it was one of the several missing components when I bought the tractor). Can you help me find one?
Answer: The stabilizer, part # 181160M1, is identical I believe to a similar part #825059M1, used on TEA-20’s with the 85 mm engine.
I may have located one of the original part number, and two of the TEA-20 part number. They are available from the Parts Depot in Chilton, WI but you can only purchase parts from them through a dealer doing business with them. Both part numbers are in their Tennessee warehouse. Many dealers, not just Massey Ferguson dealers have accounts with them. Sadly these older parts usually command pretty significant prices. If you are not aware of a dealer near you who does business with them you can call them at 800-743-3768 to locate a dealer near you.
Unless you have done so, have an MF dealer run a dealer locator search for the part numbers. If it has been a while since you ran this search, maybe a month, have the search run again. The information is constantly changing. Chances are you may be able to get a better price on the part if you can find it in some dealers old stock.
Given the number of TO-30’s and TEA-20’s that have been salvaged it would seem there should be some of these out there though, it can be one of those parts that gets lost during disassembly as it must be removed to take off the top cover or remove the hydraulic pump. They tend to get lost in the buckets of bolts removed during disassembly. Your best bet might be to contact a Tractor Salvage yard.
Question: Can you tell me what is causing a leak around my hydraulic lift cover on my TO-30? This happens whether I use a light or heavy implement.
Answer: The cover must fit well and have a clean gasket seal with the center housing to be leak free, particularly where the tube from the pump exits to deliver oil under pressure to a hole/passage in the top cover that transfers the oil to the lift cylinder. The tube runs along the right side of the housing forward of the right inspection plate. That tube runs through holes in the top and bottom of the center housing casting to transfer oil under pressure from the hydraulic pump to the internal lift cylinder. The ends of the tube are flared at either end when the tube is installed. Once installed, the tube rarely requires service unless it is damaged. If the side seam of the tube splits, it can spray oil on the seam between the top cover and the center housing, possibly causing a leak.
Other possibilities include a crack in the lift cover, or a problem with the gasket between the bottom of the top cover and the lift cylinder. The lift cylinder is held in place by four bolts with nuts on the top of the lift cover. If they are loose there is the possibility of a leak. There is either a gasket or O-ring to seal the joint between the bottom of the top cover and the top of the lift cylinder casting at the front. TO-30’s originally used an O-ring but replacement parts sometimes use a gasket like the earlier models.
There should also be two small gaskets between the rear of the lift cylinder casting and the top cover at the mounting bolts. These gaskets act as shims, if they are left out it will compromise the seal at the front. There are also two socket-head pipe plugs on either side of the top of the lift cover housing near the front for connecting auxiliary hydraulic cylinders or valves. Make sure the plugs are still sealing properly. On rare occasions the bottom of the hex opening can develop leak.
Look for oily residue; that is your best indication of the source of the leaking oil. Clean the area thoroughly and then inspect the area following each use. There are leak indicator products you can add to the oil to aid in locating illusive leaks. These are dyes to change the color of the oil to aid in leak detection. These indicators are available at most automotive supply stores.
Question: Can you help me find the correct Linch Pin Clip for my Ferguson? January 11, 2016.
Answer: The correct Ferguson part # is 195645M1. Some of the early TE/TO-20, TO-30 parts books did show which of those parts could also be used on 9N/2N models however those listings are not always reliable. The original 9N/2N, 8N linch pin clip, 9N-572-C, is made from stock that is approximately half the thickness of the Ferguson part. The hole spacing is also different between the Ford and Ferguson versions of this part. I have NOS versions of both parts but they are currently in storage or I would send you pictures.
Dennis Carpenter Ford Tractor Parts, is now reproducing Ford 9N-572-C as well as the earlier version 9N-572-A which has vertically spaced holes. Now, you may be able to bend the Ford part enough for the holes to line up but I am not sure the linch pin would still fit in the pocket.
For a few years after Ford and Ferguson split it was possible to buy 9N/2N parts from both Ford and Ferguson dealers. In fact Ford and Ferguson both printed parts catalogs for the 9N/2N during this time period. Ford and Ferguson both used the same original 9N or 2N part numbers for these parts. When Ferguson’s stock of these Ford 9N/2N parts ran out they started adding notations to the TE/ TO-20, TO-30 parts catalog so dealers could continue to sell some parts for these tractors. However, as I indicated above, not everyone of these notations was correct. Some of these parts are totally interchangeable but some are not.
Q: I have a quick question I was wondering if you knew of any place I can find a live hydraulic kit for my 54 tea20. I am kinda looking for a belt drive kit and I’m finding it difficult to find one.
A: I am not aware of anyone offering a complete live hydraulic kit for the TEA-20. The most common way of having live hydraulics for implements like front end loaders involved installing a front mounted pump. The reservoir and valve are then mounted on the loader frame. To install a front mounted pump you will have to locate a crankshaft pulley that is drilled and tapped to attach the pump drive shaft. The pump was usually mounted on the front frame of the loader though some mounted on a bracket attached to the front axle carrier. There were two common drive systems used, one that has rubber bushings that fit in holes drilled in the crankshaft pulley. A connector with two pins was pushed into the bushings and connected to the pump driveshaft with a moreflex coupling (a type of flexible joint) The other system used a splined female coupling that bolted to the crankshaft pulley. A drive shaft with male splines fit into the coupling and connected to the pump with a flexible coupling. Since you don’t have a loader you will then need a reservoir, valve and filter. Snow plow manufacturers like Meyers used to offer a belt driven pump which had a valve and reservoir attached to it. If you could find one of these you would have to add a drive pulley to the engine. These were sometimes attached to the crankshaft pulley or the generator pulley. The snow plow manufacturers also sold and still sell complete systems that were driven by an electric motor, like a starter motor. Today these are 12 volt systems but 6 volt systems were available. I have seen home made systems similar to the above made with salvaged power steering pumps from cars or trucks. If you are going to do this you are probably going to have to fabricate your own system. It can be done and I have seen some very nice systems. Some of these systems have been written about in the “N News” magazine.
Q: I am planning on removing the draft spring on my TO-30 (I see a lot of deteriation and loose rust on the spring seat end), and I have been looking for the components (felt washer, spring seat, exc.) Would you know where I could find these parts?
A: I believe these parts are still available from AGCO/Massey Ferguson dealers as well as multiple after-market sources like Stevens Tractor Parts, Steiner Tractor Parts, Yesterdays Tractors, etc. Many of these parts are the same as for a Ford 9N/2N. The spring seat and spacer used on the TO-30 is a one piece assembly on the Ford 9N/2N but these parts are interchangeable as assemblies. You can also get the Ford parts from Dennis Carpenter Ford Tractor Parts. The threaded rod and the yoke may be impossible to get apart so you may have to replace them also. Again the Ford parts can be substituted as long as you replace them as a matched assembly. Different threads were used on some of the Fords so you will like have to purchase both the yoke and the threaded rod from the same source or make sure they have matching threads.
Q: I am working on the lift system of the family TO-30. It loses lift as the gear oil increases in temperature. I have seen a piston on the internet with one ring, and that apparently uses an O-ring, and Teflon or leather backer. Would the O-ring piston reduce the loss of lift with increased temperature? What is the benefit of the O-ring piston? May 28, 2015.
A: The piston with an O-ring and backup ring is a Ford NAA part. This piston can be fitted to the Ferguson TE-20, TO-20 and TO-30 as a alternative to the original Ferguson piston with 3 rings. The Ford NAA piston will provide a better seal than the original Ferguson piston and will work well even if the original lift cylinder is scratched or has some surface imperfections.
From your description of the problem, you should also consider replacing the pump safety valve. Replacing the safety valve, piston and rings and changing the transmission/hydraulic oil generally improves the performance of these earlier Ferguson tractors. Make sure you use SAE 90 wt. Mineral Oil in the transmission/hydraulic system as it will provide the best overall performance. You can purchase this oil from Tractor Supply Company. See the attached link.
Q: I am working on a TO30. It seems every part is either worn pretty well or rusted to the point of being nearly impossible to remove. The Control Spring Adjusting Yoke is supposed to be adjustable but this one has the yoke rusted to the Lift Spring Control Plunger. Also, the Lift Arms are solidly rusted to the Hydraulic Lift Shaft. I have removed the Hydraulic Lift Cover, and the cotter pin out of the pin that attaches the plunger to the Spring Control Fork. Can you tell me how to remove the Lift Arms, or the Control Spring Adjusting Yoke off without destroying anything? May 20, 2015.
A: This is going to call for some rather drastic measures, at least they may seem to be drastic until you take the time to analyze the situation.
First, you have to get the fork assembly free from link. Use a die grinder or angle-head grinder with a cut-off wheel to cut the clevis pin on both sides of the plunger. The pin is relatively inexpensive and easy to replace. This should free up the fork assembly.
Remove the 3 bolts holding the cap/cover on the front of the draft control spring and you should be able to withdraw the entire spring and plunger assembly. Once you have it free you should be able to use penetrating oil and heat to free the plunger from the yoke. If that doesn’t work you will have to use a cut-off wheel or hack saw to cut the plunger.
Salvage what parts you can, particularly the spring, and buy a new or replacement plunger and yoke assembly. Ford parts and Ferguson parts are interchangeable when used as complete assemblies. The threads do not always match; the plunger and yoke must be matched. The thread is a special thread, similar but not the same as 5/8″ NF. After-market parts are available.
When you reassemble the unit, use anti-seize compound on the threads. After the repairs are made you should periodically unscrew the plunger from the yoke and coat the threads with anti-seize compound. You can also use grease but anti-seize compound lasts longer.
To remove the lift arms, turn the cover on its side and begin making applications of Liquid Wrench or your favorite penetrating oil. Heat the lift arm around the shaft and use a hammer, preferably a brass or dead blow hammer, to drive the arms off the shaft. You can also use a heavy brass block on the ends of the shaft. You will have to drive the arms off and then on, a little at a time, make additional applications of penetrating oil and heat to free the arms.
Be careful not to damage the lift cover. If the lift arms will not budge you will have to use a die grinder to split the lift arm where it wraps around the lift shaft. Used left arms are readily available as are lift shafts. If you can get one arm off, wire brush and clean the splines and remove the shaft from the ram arm and the top cover housing. You can then put the remaining arm and shaft in a hydraulic press to remove the remaining arm. The bottom line is you may have to sacrifice some parts to disassemble the yoke and plunger, and left arms and shaft.
Used parts are plentiful so this should be no problem. If you must replace either of the lift arms, look for used Ferguson parts as they are a bit beefier than the Ford parts. Ford parts will work however.
Q: I have a hydraulic cover leak at the front, right corner of my grandfathers MF 35. It has a diverter valve installed just above the leak. Should I just tighten and torque the nearby bolts, or loosen them all and torque them all? I ask such a simple question out of an abundance of caution. May 2, 2015.
A: It’s possible the leak is coming from where the front cover is bolted to the rear axle housing, and tightening the bolts may solve the problem. Like any casting, torque the bolts to prevent warping or cracking.
However, it is also possible the leak is from where the diverter valve attaches to the top cover. If that is the case, clean the area around the leak, remove the diverter valve, clean the surfaces, replace the O-ring, replace the valve and tighten the bolts.
The O-ring should be one with a high Duro rating, that’s the hardness of the rubber. If the O-ring is softer, has a low Duro rating, it will leak. You should have the MF part number for the O-ring in your parts book and with that information should be able to cross-reference it to determine the dimensions and correct Duro rating. If that does not stop the leak, you will have to pull the top cover and replace the gasket.
FYI there are several gasket part numbers that can be used. The gaskets vary from a thin, brown kraft paper gasket to one that is thick and has a metal core. For the most part, the gaskets are interchangeable. As the operating pressures were raised for the hydraulic system and the top cover thickness was increased, the gasket thickness and durability was increased. The correct gasket part number can be determined from the serial number.
Q: I have an opportunity to purchase a TO30 which checks out fine except for the following: The 3 point hitch control lever is frozen in the straight up position, and the arms can be moved up or down manually. The control lever will not move. I Loosened the control lever retaining nut - no change. The PTO seems to work fine. I have looked at the schematics for the unit, but can’t quite see how everything. works together to raise the arms. Something is binding, bent, broken or worn in the linkage? I Need a tractor now to start plowing with and will pass on this one, but would appreciate any thoughts that you may have? April 22, 2015.
A: It’s very possible the problem is just a stuck lever. The lever is connected to a rod that has an offset or eccentric on the end. The offset or eccentric pushes against the fork linkage that is connected to the control spring plunger at the top and the hydraulic control valve at the bottom. The offset or eccentric on the aforementioned rod acts like a moving fulcrum.
If the tractor sits outside for an extended period and the lift lever is not moved, the lever can stick. You can remove the lift lever assembly by removing the 4 bolts that hold the quadrant assembly in place. You can then withdraw and remove the assembly, There is a hole in the quadrant assembly where the shaft passes through the bracket. Putting penetrating oil in the hole should help free it. You can also use some gentle heat but be careful because the hub where the left lever is bolted to the shaft is an aluminum alloy and will melt if you apply too much heat, Once the shaft/assembly is free you will have readjust it after it is installed.
This is an easy adjustment to make so don’t panic. The adjustment is shown in the operator’s manual and shop manual.
I can send you the information if you need it. There is also a friction washer between the hub where the lever is attached and the 4 hole bracket. This original friction washer on many of these tractors was made out of rubber. The rubber can harden or stick to its mating surfaces which also causes the lever to stick. Silicone spray lubricant will usually free up the rubber disc. A cork friction disc was also used and is now the common replacement. Adjust the castle nut to put just enough tension on the spring to hold the lever in position yet allow it to be moved easily.
The hub can be removed but it usually stuck to the shaft and requires a lot of patience and penetrating oil to remove. These hubs often break when attempts are made to remove them but after-market replacements are readily available.
There is a key in the shaft to keep the hub in position but once the hub and key are removed, the shaft can be pushed out of the 4 hole bracket. To make sure the rest of the internal linkage, the fork assembly, is working properly, remove the side cover where the dipstick for the transmission/rear axle is located. You should be able to move the fork assembly back and forth.
The entire system is relatively simple to service and usually does not require service unless the fork becomes disconnected from the “dog bone” link attached to the control valve. The disconnecting problem was eliminated on TO-30 models when an aluminum spacer block was added to keep the legs of the fork from spreading apart.
Q: I am putting my TO 35 back together and have a couple of quick questions. First, if I replace the bushings on the brake cross-shaft and the clutch shaft, will I need to ream them to fit. Also, I took out the front of the pto shaft (dual stage clutch) so I could get the input shaft out to replace seals. I barely started to replace it (the front pro shaft), so I haven’t worked much with it. Is there a secret to getting the shaft to slide back in? It has engaged the front gear that drops down from the input shaft and housing.
A: I don’t think you will need to ream the bushings but I can’t guarantee it. These bushings are usually presized. The shafts will also have some wear so you may find that standard bushings still allow some play in the shafts. If so, you can have the shafts built up and turned down to original dimensions and/or have bushings custom made. As for the PTO shaft, one of the problems is getting the end of the PTO shaft into the needle bearing at the end. There is enough slack in the pump mount that the pump can drop down so loosening the pins that hold the pump in place will allow the pump to shift a bit and the shaft to move enough so it will go into the needle bearing at the end.
Q: I am in the process of replacing the seal(s) on the pto shaft. At the local bearing store, the counterman said that their suppliers no longer make a seal that is one-half inch thick and sold me two quarter-inch seals. Seems like a good idea, yes? Anyway, should I face the lip of the inner seal toward the tractor to seal oil in and face the lip of the outer one outward to ward off dirt?
A: The lip of the seal should face the inside of the housing, where the oil is. The attached link should help. http://www.federalmogul.com/en-US/EIT/National/Profile/TechnicalInformation/Pages/OilSealInstallation.aspx I am not sure you might not find an original seal from another supplier including several after-market suppliers and AGCO/MF. Using two seals should work.
Q: Can you give me some suggestions on methods to remove the top link bushings on my F40? They would not press out. They would not drive out. I heated the casting. I lubricated everything. Nothing worked. I finally fired up the flame wrench and removed material in the center. I was finally able to get them out. November 3, 2014.
A: Yes the bushings can be a real pain to get out. Here are a few ideas for the next time. Remember the bushings have a knurled end, which has a slightly larger diameter. The knurled end goes to the inside of the clevis as I recall therefore, the bushing must be pushed in to the center to remove them and installed from the inside of the clevis and pushed out to install them.
A way to make the tractor bushings easier to remove is to split them. You may be able to do this with a hack saw blade and handle or with a small grinder. When you cut through the wall of the bushing it will collapse and the outer diameter will decrease making it easier to remove.
Q; I installed the 2,500# Pressure Relief Valve (PRV) in my F40 at the urging of my supplier. The Changes Section of the repair manual discusses a strengthened lift cover with the stronger PRV. Should I replace the 2,500# PRV with the 2,000# PRV? November 3, 2014.
A: I believe in the original recommendations in the MHF factory service manual. The 2500 lbs. relief valve is correct for the F-40. According to Service Bulletin 56-19, the F-40s were equipped with a heavier top cover and heavier lift links before the TO-35 was. I believe there is a part number for the top cover so you can check to see if you have the first version of the strengthened top cover. There have been several improvements to strengthen the top cover during production, including current production. It is possible a 2,000 lbs relief valve was installed in the past. If you choose to replace it with the same valve, Massey Ferguson does not supply the part. It is likely only available through aftermarket suppliers.
Q: Thank you for your help with the piston. To follow-up, which is the right side of the piston? Is it towards the rear or front (of the tractor). Also, my supplier gave me a leather and a Teflon backer, is either better? This is my first hydraulic lift-piston service and the idea of an unattached piston is new to me. My guess is, since the force is being applied from the back of the chamber the backer would be on the opposite end of the piston: towards the rear of the tractor. Please correct me if I am wrong. November 3, 2014.
A: The top of the piston is the domed part with the slight projection. This top part goes into the cylinder first. The backup ring is put on first, I prefer the plastic backup ring but both kinds work. Move the backup ring to the bottom of the groove, so it is closest to the bottom of the piston, that’s the recessed end of the piston. The O ring is then installed on the piston so the O ring is closest to the top or domed part of the piston. Coat the inside of the cylinder and the piston and O ring with oil before pushing the piston into the cylinder. The recessed part of the piston is the bottom and this is the part of the piston you should seen when the piston is installed in the cylinder and where the piston will contact the rounded end of the connecting link or dog bone as it is often called. (The dog bone connotation comes from the original 9N, 2N design which has a ball at each end).
Q: I have to drain the fluid from my 1952 TO 30 to replace the PTO shaft. What do you recommend to refill it? October 20, 2014.
A: The recommended oil for the transmission/rear axle/hydraulic system is SAE 90 wt. mineral oil. You can purchase this oil at Tractor Supply Company stores as TSC Traveller All Mineral SAE 90 Ford Tractor Transmission Fluid, SKU # 0806600. It is sold in 2 gallon jugs and you will need approximately 6 gallons or 3 jugs.
Traveller® Ford Tractor All Mineral 90 Transmission Fluid, 2 gal. - Tractor Supply Co. Hydraulic Fluid | Brand : Traveller® | Additive Type : Premium | Size : 2 gal. | ISO Grade : 150 | Viscosity (SUS @ 100 F) : 750 | Flash Point : 455 deg. F | Pour Point : 0 deg. F | UPC : 749394806606
You will find this oil is exactly what was originally recommended by Ferguson and Massey Ferguson and is equivalent to MF 1103 oil but at a much lower price.
Thinner oils tend to leak as the seals are not designed for the use of lighter weight oils. Make sure you remove all three drain plugs to drain the oil. There are plugs at the bottom of the transmission, differential housing and hydraulic pump. There are sump areas at each location that collect water and debris. Draining the oil at all three locations makes sure all the water and debris is removed. If there is an excess amount of debris you can flush out the cases with diesel fuel or mineral spirits.
Q: I have a 1949 TO20, which I am going to have restored this winter. Before I do that, I need to repair the hydraulic system. The problem I am having is that when a piece of equipment is raised, it takes a long time for it to lower when the control lever is placed in the “down” position. I read your excellent article in the January 2013 issue about trouble shooting the Ferguson hydraulic system, but could not determine if any of the repairs you suggested would solve my problem. Can you provide any information on how I might approach this problem? September 26, 2014
A: There are a few of possibilities as to what is causing the problem. I would wonder about the condition of the oil. Is it the right weight and type and does it have something in it that is making it difficult to flow through the valves and ports? The oil originally specified for this tractor is 90 wt mineral oil. You can purchase this oil in 2 gallon jugs from Tractor Supply or TSC, SKU # 0806600. The jug is labeled Traveler All Mineral SAE 90 Ford Tractor Transmission Fluid.” It will take about 3 jugs to refill the transmission, rear axle. You pour it in at the transmission cover plug and it will flow to the rear axle housing.
Is there some sort of blockage in the supply tube, lift cylinder or valve that is preventing the oil from flowing as it should? There is a tube that runs from the hydraulic pump to the lift cylinder. After draining the oil you can flush this tube if you remove the 3/8″ hex pipe plug at the right side of the lift cover and the plug which is really a bolt at the right front corner of the hydraulic pump base. The plug or bolt projects from under the center housing at an angle. Flush the tube with fuel oil or mineral spirits and use compressed air to clean it out. Then reinstall the plug/bolt and flush the line back to the valve the same way. The solvent will drain out the bottom of the center axle housing.
There are multiple plugs that have to be drained to empty the entire system. There is one under the transmission, one in the hydraulic pump base and one under the differential. If there is blockage in these areas it is likely the cases have debris in them and should be flushed with fuel oil or mineral spirits as well.
Is your control lever properly adjusted. Adjustment of the control is covered in the article you referred to. It is likely dirt or debris is plugging the passages but I would check to make sure the Ferguson System is properly adjusted before draining the oil. After the system is flushed and the oil replaced with new oil, I would again check the adjustment. If none of these solutions work you need to remove the pump and inspect the valve.
It is possible there is damage to the valve or residue causing it to stick in the bore of the sleeve it slides in and out of. It is also possible for the sleeve to move and obstruct the flow. There is more information about this in the shop manual.
Q: I am sending you 2 images of hydraulic pumps, one the control valve pushes rearward & the other one the valve pushes frontward. I have a pump that the valve pushes frontward, my question to you is can I change the control valve on this pump so it will push rearward? September 16, 2014.
A: I’ve never done that but I suspect if you had all the parts needed to make the change in the valve you could do it. The pistons, valve chambers, etc. on these pumps can often be interchanged but there are differences in the bores, shaft lengths and splines so be very careful if you try to make modifications. I would recommend getting a parts book for each of these pumps and compare the parts used. That should give you an idea of what will transfer from one pump to the other.
Q: I have a Ferguson TO35 and I’ve had the tractor for over 15 yrs. This last summer the 3 pt hitch began acting funny. When I raise the hitch, the lever and the hitch start to drop back down. As soon as the arms are up where you want them, you have to hold the round lever or it wont stay. The lift lever slowly moves forward if you don’t physically hold it. Can you tell me what is wrong?
A: One of the first things to check are the Quadrant friction washers. There are coil springs under the screws that put pressure on the washers to hold the levers in place. If the springs are weak, broken or rusty they will not put enough pressure on the discs and the levers will move from where they are set. I would check these washers and loosen up the screws so you can adjust them to put more pressure on the friction washers. The levers should work smoothly and easily but you should be able to feel the drag of the friction washers when you move the levers. If the screws are rusted, you may have to replace them.
There are a series of adjustments that can be made to the internal linkage that can be made without removing the top cover. Those were described in an article I did for Ferguson Furrows.
Q: I have a 1957 TO-35. My hydraulics work well but I have noticed lately that I have to move the hyraulic lever farther up the quadrant before lifting starts. I even moved the stop farther to gain some movement space. Is there a specific reason for this and are there any easy adjustments to make that can be done either externally or by removing the dipstick cover?
A: i just did an article for Ferguson Furrows on how to do some simple external checks and adjustments to the hydraulic system on these tractors. The article was in issue 60, March 2013. It is possible the position you have the outer draft control lever in is effecting the point at which lifting starts. If you look at the marks on the quadrant you should see an area marked “Position Control”. If you place the outside lever in that range or position, the lift point for the other lever should be consistent.There are however some internal adjustments that can effect the system operation and controls. Read the article and go through the adjustments and let me know if that helps.
Q: Which way does the PTO oil seal install on a MF65. The seal has a flat side and a side with the part markings and a raised lip. Which side goes to the oil and which aft?
A: The lip of the oil seal should face into the rear axle housing, This should be a double lip seal as I recall, the inner seal keeps the oil in and the outer seal keeps the dirt out. I’ve included some web site information that may help as well. http://www.ehow.com/how_10034458_proper-lip-seal-directions.html
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