Question: I’m restoring a 1953 TO-30 that was missing some parts. The Parts Manual lists fuel tank mounting pads and straps. I’ve been unable to find these for sale but can easily fabricate them. The straps seem straight forward but can you tell me what the pads are made of and how thick they are? January 5, 2016.
Answer: The pads are strips of rubber, likely oil and gas resistant, approximately 1/8″ thick. A total of 4 strips are used, below and above the lip of the fuel tank. You should be able to locate the material at an industrial supply house.
I’ve seen home made versions made from strips of inner tube, but that required a double thickness to duplicate the original thickness. These inner tube versions work but have a relatively short life given the engine heat and exposure to gasoline.
The metal bars are approximately the same 1/8″ thickness. Both the rubber and metal strips are easy to duplicate. You may also be able to find them at a tractor salvage yard. You might try Nolt’s in Pennsylvania, TIPS in Tennessee, or Pittsburgh Tractor in Texas.
Q: I have a wonderful old TO 30 that I have been playing with for 21 years. It has always had issues with starting hard, flooding and speed creeping up. I can disconnect the lever from the governor rod to the carburetor and start it and it runs fine. Any suggestions would be very welcome.
A: There are several springs on the governor control linkage and they all need to be in place and in good condition for the system to work properly. You indicated you have replaced the cork friction disc and the spring on the shaft. There is a good chance you do not have the clamp on the shaft pushed up far enough to create sufficient pressure. The coils on the spring on shaft need to be compressed completely or nearly completely. To accomplish this I find it simpler to remove the air cleaner assembly and then tighten the clamp enough to hold it in place while I drive it towards the dash with a small hammer. It is often necessary to either hold another hammer on the end of the shaft on the dashboard side or tap the end a bit to make sure the lugs are seated in the disc while driving the clamp to compress the spring. Check the final position of the clamp to make sure the throttle lever will move through the recommended arc indicated in the shop and operator’s manuals and not interfere with the oil gauge line, the air cleaner assembly or the battery platform. If necessary reposition the clamp and make sure the spring on the shaft is fully compressed. There are two additional springs which should be checked. There should be a spring at the front end of the shaft where it attaches to the link that connects it to the shaft the drops down to the governor control lever. This spring is a compensator spring, part #181535M1. Make sure this spring is in place and in good condition. The other spring is at the base of the vertical shaft connected to the governor control lever. If this spring, part #180088M1, appears stretched or weak it should also be replaced. The friction disc, part # 180713M2 is still available from MF dealers but the washer and spring on the shaft are no longer available. The washer, part # 180714M1 is still available from many dealers and suppliers as a New Old Stock part. I have several but sadly all my stock is in storage and it may be months before I can get to it. As for the spring on the shaft, part # 180689M1 which subs to part # 826995M1, I have found a spring commonly available from Ace Hardware is nearly identical and works just fine as a replacement.
Q: I have an F40 Ferguson. It is in need of a carb overhaul. Are you aware of the make and model of the carburetor. It is very difficult to see any numbers, although I have not removed it from the tractor. I was told it is a Marvin Sheibler TSX 683, is that correct? June 26, 2014
A: The F40 used both the Marvel Schebler and Carter carburetors. Parts for the Marvel are fairly easy to come by and there are rebuild kits and rebuilt carburetors available as well as replacements that are identical to the original. Parts for the Carter are harder to come by and the kits that are available may have the needle and seat, and possibly the throttle shaft. You may have to fabricate your own main body gasket. I do have some parts so when you determine what you have, let me know and I will give you more specific information.
Q: I have a Carter Carb. on my Fergie and I don’t see a rebuild kit listed for that. There are 2 numbers on the carb, one on the manifold flange 0834 and one on the bowl area on the body of the carb. 0-985. I cant read any numbers on the tag. Do you know of a number for this carb. and if I can get a complete kit? June 13, 2014
A: There are three different Carter carburetors used on Fergusons, they are the UT 997S - 2709 S, the UT 2418 S, the UT 2223 S - 2402 S, and the UT 2612 S. I am not sure which carburetor you have so I am sending you copies of the service bulletins outlining the repair procedure and the parts used on each of the carburetors.
Some of the parts are common to more than one Carter carburetor. Sadly parts for all of these Carter carburetors are nearly impossible to find. Some of the carburetors are similar to carburetors used on the Farmall A, B, C, 100, 130, 200, 230. There are only two kits available that I am aware of and if you are lucky they will have the float valve assembly and throttle shaft you can use to repair your carburetor.
I have been working with Steiner Tractor Parts to develop kits for these Ferguson carburetors but so far we have nothing ready for sale. I do have some parts in my personal collection that I would consider selling. I should at least be able to send you a photo copy of the main body gasket which you can use to make a new gasket if your old one is not in good enough condition to use as a pattern. Once we determine which carburetor you have and what parts you need, I can check to see if I have the parts you need.
I did an article for Ferguson Furrows a couple of years back on these carburetors and I believe you can still get a copy of that issue if you don’t have it from our editor Judy Kitson. I will also attach a copy of the parts list for the parts for each of these carburetors. If you are unable to find the parts needed to repair your Carter carburetor you can replace it with a new, used or rebuilt Marvel Schebler carburetor. Once I know which carburetor you have, and the tractor you have I can give you the part number for the correct Marvel Schebler carburetor.
Stevens Tractor Parts sells Tisco kit BK201V for around $21 which has parts for the UT 2223 S and UT 2418 S carburetors. Steiner Tractor Parts sells kit number ABC 1387 for around $45 which has parts for the UT, UT 2612 S and the UT 2418 S carburetors. The kit may also have parts for the UT 2223 S and UT 2418 S. Five of the six carburetors use the same throttle shaft and needle and seat assembly. The UT 2612 S which is MF # 184 458 M91 uses a different needle and seat and a different throttle shaft.
Q: I just purchased a Ferguson TE20 and it is not working good. I am a fair mechanic, but a complete novice with tractors. The tractor starts and runs for 30 seconds, stalls and then will not start again. Initially, I removed and cleaned the fuel bowl and this seemed to solve the problem for a few subsequent starts. The problem reoccurred the other day and emptying and cleaning the fuel bowl is not working. I see what looks like a metal fuel filter after I remove the glass bowl. Could this metal filter need cleaning? How is it removed, by screwing it out? Or do you have any other suggestions?
A: There are at least 2 and usually 3 filter screens in your fuel system. Any or all of them could be plugged or need cleaning. I am not sure which sediment bowl assembly you have as there were three different ones used originally. There should be a round brass screen in the top of the sediment bowl valve assembly. Once the sediment bowl is removed, remove the gasket and you should be able to gently pry the screen lose. The later style Ferguson sediment bowl assemblies, which could have been used as a replacement for the original, have a filter that looks like a 1/2″ diameter cylinder approximately 1″ long. This filter hangs down from the valve casting and is removed by gently unscrewing the base. This filter is made up of a stack of metal discs that form the filter.
There should also be a filter inside the tank, attached to the top of the sediment valve casting. This filter is a cylinder of brass screen around the two standpipes that the fuel is drawn threw. You have to drain the fuel tank and unscrew the entire sediment bowl and valve casting from the fuel tank to clean or inspect this filter screen. It is also possible one or both of the standpipes is plugged but I will not go into that right now.
There is a filter or should be a filter inside the carburetor, soldered to the brass fitting that screws into the side of the carburetor, where the fuel line is attached. To remove this filter you have to disconnect the fuel line, screw a compression nut like the one on the fuel line into the brass fitting and unscrew it from the carburetor. Screwing a compression nut into the brass fitting before you attempt to unscrew it will prevent the fitting from being damaged when you unscrew it.
The two standpipes in the top of the valve casting that extends into the fuel tank can become plugged with debris. This often happens when the gas in the fuel tank evaporates leaving a varnish residue in the fuel tank. The pieces of varnish or other residue from inside the tank plugs these inlet pipes. The valve on the sediment bowl casting has two settings, “main” and “reserve.” When the valve is unscrewed 2 turns from closed, the fuel is drawn through the taller of the two standpipes. This leaves about a gallon of fuel in the bottom of the tank as a reserve. When you unscrew the valve all the way, fuel is drawn from the shorter standpipe. You may have to remove the sediment valve assembly from the tank and flush out the tank to remove the debris. In extreme cases you will have to remove the fuel tank and take it to a shop to have it flushed out and possibly sealed and coated to prevent it from rusting. Radiator shops often do these fuel tank repairs. This kind of varnish and debris occurs when fuel is left in the tank and evaporates over time. The fuel turns to varnish as it dries up leaving a dark brown residue in your fuel tank.
Your fuel line may also be plugged. To check it, disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor, then open the fuel valve on the sediment bowl. If the flow is restricted, you will have to remove the fuel line and blow it out. In extreme cases you may have to push a wire through the fuel line to remove the debris. Check the flow at the sediment bowl before reinstalling the fuel line. If fuel flows freely from the connection on the sediment bowl, the problem is likely a plugged fuel line.
Water in the fuel can also cause fuel to be blocked within the carburetor. The passages in the jets and orifices are so small that water can plug them. Adding a “dry gas” (winter fuel line antifreeze) product to the fuel should allow the water to flow through these passages.
Q: I have an original TEA 20 Reg number PRF 801 petrol chassis 55935 – first registered 21 Sept 1948. I have been running it on a mixture of Avgas and unleaded petrol is this ok? I have been told I should be running it on unleaded and “parrafine”.
A: I am not sure how similar our fuels here in the states are as compared to those in your area. There are three concerns we have regarding the use of regular unleaded gasoline available here.
The first is the absence of lead. It was originally added as a valve lubricant and antiknock agent. There are readily available lead substitute additives which can be added to gasoline and I recommend their use. I use them in the fuel in my own older tractor engines. I use a product sold under the CD2 brand label. As I recall it takes approximately 3 to 5 ounces of the additive for each 5 gallons of gasoline or petrol as you call it.
I believe the “parrafine”, which I believe is what we call kerosene, being suggested is meant to provide some of the lubrication properties that the lead substitute additives supply. If you can locate one of the lead substitute products I mentioned I believe it would be superior to “parrafine”. You could use one of the lead substitute additives with either Av gas or regular gasoline. To be honest, I don’t know if your gasoline or petrol contains alcohol or if it still contains lead.
The second is the addition of ethanol alcohol to our gasoline. This is a government requirement intended to promote the use of sustainable resources for fuel. Alcohol in any form has an affinity for water and fuel that has alcohol in it will absorb water from the atmosphere. Water tends to corrode fuel system components and the result is often rust in the bottom of cast iron carburetor bowls or the formation of other oxides on alloy components. Fuel with alcohol additives left in fuel tanks and carburetors usually result in corrosion so the best practice is to avoid leaving these fuels standing in fuel tanks and fuel systems for extended periods of time. Many collectors drain their fuel systems when their tractors will not be used for extended periods.
The third is the overall quality of the gasoline products available today. In an effort to reduce costs, lesser grades of crude oil are being refined and techniques which maximize production often decrease fuel quality. Aviation gas or av gas as you call it, is a good alternative to regular automotive pump gas and I know many people who use it in their tractors because it is cleaner, and free of alcohol. Most of these same people do add a lead substitute additive to it for additional valve lubrication. Another good substitute for unleaded regular gasoline with ethanol is something they sell here in the summer months only, alcohol free premium unleaded. That and premium unleaded are the fuels specified by 2 cycle engine manufacturers like Stihl.
Because these fuels have either no ethanol or less ethanol they are better for the fuel systems of 2 cycle engines because they do not cause corrosion like ethanol additive fuel does. These small engines are usually made of light weight alloy parts. Many small engine dealers here are also selling premium unleaded alcohol free gasoline in sealed containers as a premium fuel for engines. The price is usually at least double the price per gallon of pump gas or gas purchased at a filling station but they claim it is a fuel you can leave in a stored engine for an extended period of time.
If an engine is equipped with Stellite faced valves and valve seats, using unleaded gasoline should not damage the valves or seats. Stellite faced valves and valve seats were a replacement parts option for the TO-20 available from Ferguson and Massey Ferguson. Stellite faced exhaust valves were standard equipment on the TO-30. Newer engines made to run on unleaded gasoline are usually equipped with Stellite faced valves and valve seats. You might consider posing your question to the Friends of Ferguson Heritage in the UK.