FENA

Question: How do I set the carburetor on my TO 35?

Answer: Harry Ferguson considered setting the carburetor an important maintenance task. He constantly preached the need to maintain Ferguson tractors and equipment in the highest state of repair to obtain the maximum level of performance. Failure to perform as desired was usually attributed to failure to maintain.

There are three adjustments on the carburetor. The small needle valve screw is the idle mixture screw,and the initial setting is 7/8 turn open from the fully seated or closed position. The large needle valve screw is the main jet, and the initial setting is 1 1/4 turns open from the fully seated or closed position. There is a third screw or wing headed screw on the back side of the carburetor. This is the idle speed screw which is normally set so the idle speed is 450 RPM. The above settings are correct for both the Marvel Schebler and Carter carburetors.

Start the tractor and let it warm up. Set the idle speed to the 450 RPM. The Idle Mixture screw can now be adjusted slightly to obtain the highest, smoothest idle speed. If you have a vacuum gauge, set the screw to obtain the highest steady vacuum reading. Reset the idle speed to 450 RPM.

The Main Jet should be set while the tractor is working under load. With the tractor under normal load, quickly move the throttle from half open to full open position. If the engine coughs or stall, the mixture is too lean. Open the main jet a little at a time (1/8 turn) and repeat the test. When the engine responds immediately to increase acceleration and runs smoothly and evenly. Never set the Main Jet to less than one full turn open as it will cause the valves to burn.

Before performing these adjustments make sure the screws hold the upper and lower carburetor halves together are tight, and the nuts holding the carburetor to the manifold are tight. Also make sure the manifold nuts are tight. Failure to keep these fasteners tight causes air leaks which will not allow the carburetor to operate correctly.

Question: The governor on my Ferguson 35 is not working and I plan to repair or replace it. Can you give me some advice about what to look for?

Answer: First, follow the Ferguson guidelines on adjusting the governor linkage. Check that the governor is not stuck. If the tractor has sat for a while it may be just a little rusty and can be worked free. Make sure all the linkage parts are free to move, and do not show obvious wear. Replace any parts that show wear.

The governor is behind the timing gear cover. To remove the timing gear cover, you will need to remove the radiator, the drive-shaft pulley, and you may need to drain the oil. You may need to raise the gas tank to remove the radiator hose at the top. It is advisable to replace the thermostat, seals, gaskets, and water pump. Removing the drive-shaft pulley requires a short puller. Note the position and orientation of all seals and gaskets.

The governor may have been previously serviced. Compare the parts you remove with the parts diagram and list in your Ferguson manual. Remove the cap screws holding the timing gear cover. Be sure to remove the three cap screws that hold the cover from below. Be careful not to bend the cover during removal. There are two alignment pins on the lower left and right. Use a thin blade to separate the cover from the block. Once the cover is removed inspect the parts for wear.

Carefully check the needle bearings for the shaft on the governor control arm assembly. These bearings tend to rust because oil does not reach them. The roll pin that attaches the paddle to the shaft inside the cover has to be drilled out to remove the arm. Once the paddle is removed the arm can be withdrawn to replace the bearings and seal.

Look to see if the spring is bent, or loose. Look for signs of nicks or dents on the inside of the cover. If the steel balls fall out of the cage, replace the governor. If the balls have flat spots on them, replace the governor. Look for excessive wear on the balls rolling surface. Look for signs of inadequate lubrication. Check for unusual wear on the gears.

When replacing the timing gear cover use the specified gasket. Do not use a silicone or other sealer. They may not be compatible with the aluminum casting. You may want to prime and paint the front of the engine while it is exposed.

Carefully follow the installation instructions that come with the new governor. Replacement governors include a round shim that is installed behind the governor and a shouldered nut that must be installed with the turned down shoulder facing the governor so the governor fits over the shoulder. Be certain to follow the Ferguson procedure for adjusting the governor linkage after replacing the governor.

Question: A Ferguson friend of mine has a TO30 with a 35 manifold. He wants to convert to an upright exhaust. He was at the Flywheelers last week and talked to several down there about what he needed to make the conversion but did not find anyone who had much info. Do you know anything about this? Is there a special part or piece to make the conversion? March 2, 2016.

Question — Bob, I finally finished my F40 restoration, but my governor isn’t working; A mere touch of the speed lever and the engine takes off like a 747 leaving the runway, How should I proceed? November 12, 2015.

Answer: The first step is to make sure everything is assembled and adjusted correctly. Hopefully this is just a matter of adjusting the linkage. The adjustment procedure is outlined in the original operator’s manual, the official factory shop manual, and the I&T shop manuals. The adjustment procedure for the F-40 is the same as that for earlier model Fergusons beginning with the TO-20. I’ve also attached a link to the FENA website.

If the problem is not corrected with external adjustments, you will have to pull the timing gear cover to replace the governor. That will involve removing the hood, grill, and radiator and then pulling the crankshaft pulley. You will then be able to remove the timing gear cover.

Check carefully to make sure all the springs for the governor linkage are intact.

Answer: The female threads in the block are 1/8″ pipe thread. The fitting at the block should be a 90 degree fitting, 1/8″ male thread to 1/4″ female compression fitting. The original line is 1/4″ steel brake tubing with double flares.

The line is routed along the lock, up through the two legs of the air cleaner bracket along the side of the battery, making almost a 90 degree bend to connect to the oil gauge. The oil gauge should have an adapter fitting, 1/8″ female pipe thread to 1/4″ female compression to mate with the flare fitting on the brake line.

Question: I have a 1958 TO-35. I tried to replace the governor shaft seal following the service manual instructions. Mine does not have the set screw identified in the manual. How do I remove the pin holding the shaft in? October 14, 2015.

Answer: Only later production Z134 and Z145 engines have the set screw. The procedure for earlier production Z134 engines as on the TO-35 and F-40 is the same as for the Z129 and Z120 engines used on the TO-30 and TE/TO-20 tractors.

After removing the cover, try to drive the pins down as far as they will go. That should give you just enough of a hole to act as a drill guide. Then drill out the pins using a 5/32″ drill bit. It is not necessary to drill all the way through the hole in the other side of the paddle, drill just deep enough to free the shaft. If they will not drive down, use a center punch to carefully punch the center of the pin and then use a 5/32″ drill bit to drill out the pin. Again, you do not have to drill all the way through the paddle to free the shaft.

After the shaft is removed you will be able to drive out the remainder of the pins. Remove the seal by prying it out with a screwdriver. Drive out the bearings using a piece of rod, punch or a socket of the same outer diameter. Clean the cover and make sure you remove all metal shavings. If the shaft is badly worn you may have to replace the arm and shaft assembly or have the worn area built up with weld and turned down.

The shaft will actually work just fine with a fair amount of wear. Use a strip of emery cloth to smooth the edges of any grooves in the shaft so it will rotate smoothly. Use the same piece of steel rod or socket to carefully drive the new bearings into place. Use a larger socket to carefully drive the new seal into place. Grease the be bearings before installing the shaft, lining up the holes in the shaft with the paddle and installing new pins. Carefully head the ends of the pins to hold them in place.

You will have to readjust the governor linkage once the governor is serviced and the cover is reinstalled. Follow the procedure in the original Operator’s Manual, Service Manual or the FENA website.

http://fergusontractors.org/fena/wp-content/uploads/Throttle-Linkage-Adjustment.pdf

Q: The oil pressure in my TO 30 is around 20 psi which falls when it is warm, or the tractor is in a pull — why is this and what can I do about it? September 23, 2015.

A: That oil pressure is not ideal but tolerable, in fact my own TO-30 runs around the same. Assuming your engine is in relatively good condition, there are a few things you can check to possibly raise the pressure.

1. Ferguson originally specified straight weight oil for this tractor. Using 30 weight oil should maximize the oil pressure. You can run multi-grade oil but you will often find the oil pressure is lower when you do. The question then is, what weight oil are you using?

2. You can raise the oil pressure by increasing the pressure on the oil pressure relief-valve spring. Drop the oil pan and you will see the oil pump at the front of the engine. The relief-valve spring is in the round part of the oil pump casing than hangs down. Look closely and you will see a cotter pin in the round part that hangs down. The cotter pin holds the relief valve and spring in the casting. Remove the cotter pin and place several 1/4″ flat washers between the spring and the cotter pin. The washers will serve as shims and raise the pressure on the spring which will raise the oil pressure.

If however the oil pump is worn and or the crankshaft journals and bearings are worn the only solution is to rebuild the engine. That rebuild would include grinding the crankshaft and installing new bearings.

Question: My TO35 began to “run away w/itself” last week. It Revved so high it threw the belt off a 6′ finish mower. After checking the throttle linkage & looking at comments on the web, I think there is a problem with the governor. Parts have to be replaced. Is this a pretty safe bet? Parts are not too high - but it is a bit of a project.

Answer: Yes, it sounds like your governor needs to be replaced. Be sure to follow the installation instructions exactly for your tractor. The new replacement governors for the Continental gas engine usually include a shim that fits under the new governor and instructions about the placement of the nut that holds the governor to the camshaft. This nut must be installed correctly, usually with the turned down shoulder facing the governor assembly and supporting it.

Also be careful not to over torque the nut. It is easy to break off the threaded end of the cam shaft and then you will face the expense of replacing the camshaft. These changes in the replacement governor were made in order to allow it to replace the governor on both the Continental and Perkins gas engines.

Make sure you follow the procedure for adjusting the governor linkage once you assemble it. Adjustment is critical for proper operation. Make sure you check the condition of the two needle bearings in the cover as well as the seals. The bearings support the shaft that connects to the linkage arm.

You should also check the springs in the linkage. There are 3, one at the bottom of the plunger that contacts the arm connected to the governor dish or cup, one at the top of the plunger linkage, and one at the throttle linkage under the dash.

The governors sold by the after-market suppliers are usually the same as those currently being sold by AGCO/Massey Ferguson as replacements.

Question: Do you know if the Continental Z120 Engine was made in 1946 specifically for the To-20? or was it made prior, and was it used in something else? Also, the engine-block cracking problem that it had, was that from the ones that overheated, or from something else?

Answer: I believe the Z120 as well as the later series Z engines were used in other applications. Yes, I believe overheating was a major factor in these blocks cracking. Improvements were made in the cooling systems of later versions of the Z series engines, the Z129, Z134 and Z145. These changes may have reduced cracking but it still remained a problem.

Sadly, poor cooling system maintenance by owners and operators was also a major factor. I do not have specifics but I can tell you I am not surprised when I work on one of these engines and find cracks in the top webs between the cylinders. These are usually not a problem. Cracks at the lower end usually go through the crankshaft journals and these are the ones that allow coolant to leak into the oil.

Q: My Father and Son are working on a TO30. They have it back together now, and I was wandering if they need to run it and then re-torque the head bolts. If so, should the engine be cold or warm when re-torqing?

A: Yes, running the engine and getting it up to operating temperature and then torqing again is the ideal. To do it right you will need a special offset socket tool for your torque wrench. Snap-On had a very nice one but it is currently out of production. There is another version that will work and sold by Snap-On, MAC and most of the other tool suppliers. Hopefully you coated the gasket liberally with Copper Coat before installing it and followed the torqueing sequence described in the shop manual.

Q: Apparently, a case can be made that the Agco oil filter is better for the TO20 (and I assume all the early Continental engines) than WIX, FRAM or other brands. Do you know of a clear reason to think the AGCO filter is better? May 25, 2015.

A: The main reason I have recommended using the AGCO filter on TE and TO-20 tractors is it is one of the few filters I know of that is correctly designed to use with the TE/TO-20 which has oil flowing from the center of the filter to the outside. The flow of oil through this filter is opposite the flow of oil in other filters including those used on the TO-30, TO-35, F-40 and other Continental engines used on Ferguson tractors. Many manufacturers, including Fram, Purolator, AC, Wix, and Baldwin list an oil filter for the TE/TO-20 tractors but, now either show no listing or list the same filter as used for the TO-30, TO-35, etc. The TO-30 and TO-35 filter, though they have the same dimensions, are not supposed to be used on the TE/TO-20.

The Ferguson Shop Manual contains the following admonition: “CAUTION: Do not interchange the two filter elements. The filter element for the TO-30 engine, Part No. TO-18662-A, is designed for oil flow from the outside to the center. The filter element for the TO-20 and TE-20 engines, Part No. TO-18662-2, is designed for the oil flow from the center to the outside. If the elements are interchanged in the engines, the relative flow of oil will be reversed and plugging will result.”

Many suppliers today list the same oil filter for a TE/TO-20 as for a TO-30, TO-35 or F-40. Sadly, unless there has been a major change in the design of oil filters to allow them to flow oil from either the inside out or the outside in, those oil filters can damage a TE/TO-20 engine. The design of the bypass valve in an oil filter would seem to make flowing oil in either direction impossible.

As indicated above, the TO-30 oil filter will fit the TE/TO-20 but it is not to be used in the TE/TO-20. Several years ago I did an article for Furrows on this topic. I believe the title was, “Which Filter is Right for Your Ferguson Tractor?” A couple of years ago when I noticed some oil filter charts/lists recommending the same filter for the TE/TO-20 as for the TO-30, TO-35 and F-40, I contacted one of the manufacturers, Wix I believe. After playing phone tag I was finally able to talk to someone supposedly in the know. The person I spoke with said he’d never heard about a TE/TO-20 using a filter in which oil flowed in the opposite direction from other oil filters and pretty much blew me off. Therefore, in the interest of preserving TE/TO-20 engines, I began recommending using only AGCO oil filters.

If a manufacturer lists a different filter number for a TE/TO-20 than they do for a TO-30, TO-35 and F-40, they probably still offer the correct filter for a TE/TO-20. If a manufacturer lists the same oil filter for TE/TO-20 engines as for a TO-30, TO-35 and F-40, I would not use it in a TE/TO-20.

Q: Hello, My name is Joe and I’m trying to help an older friend of mine keep her grass cut at the farm. The old family tractor is in good shape just needs a few little things looked after before we start cutting. I need to replace the muffler and exhaust pipe from manifold to muffler. I’m having problems finding the model. The tag plate above steering wheel says Harry Ferguson and number is TO-8805. All the casting marks on tractor are HF. A picture of the tag is attached . I would appreciate any help you can lend. April 21, 2015.

A: The serial number, TO-8805 indicates your tractor is a TO-20. You should be able to find a replacement muffler and tail pipe assembly at most Tractor Supply Stores and from numerous other companies selling replacement tractor parts. You should also be able to get the assembly from most NAPA stores.

If you can find a local store that stocks the assembly you should be able to avoid any shipping costs. Check the condition of the clamp as you may also need to purchase a replacement. The clamp is used with the original flare style connection on the original manifold. Some replacement manifolds have a three bolt flange fitting. These are actually TO-35 manifolds which can be used on the TO-20 and TO-30. If your tractor has the TO-35 style manifold you can use the TO-35 style muffler and exhaust pipe with the 3 bolt flange. These assemblies are available from the same sources listed above.

Q: Robert. Found you on FENA home page. Tonight I was using my tractor and just before I finished up the engine increased to max throttle and won’t idle down, and I am sure it is the governor. Is it a big job to take off and repair or install a used one or new or rebuilt? I have never worked on one before. April 13, 2015,

Q: When I did a first fit of the cowl section today, I noted that the choke rod would be bound tight if I would push the bracket through which the choke rod passes far enough forward to bolt to the cowl. I assume the choke rod needs a bend some six inches forward from the bracket-safe assumption? March 24, 2015.

A: if you are referring to the chock rod on a TO 35 make sure you have the metal bracket/choke rod support, and make sure it is correctly installed and not turned slightly. It will also cause the rod to bind.

Q: I have a TO35 that has an oil leak. Project started off replacing the flywheel, but mechanic suggested replacing rear main seal. Sounded like a good idea? Problem is where the rear main seal sits with retainer, there are two holes where oil is leaking from. We don”t know what the two holes are. Or what went there?

A: I don’t recall what those two holes are for but I do know when the rear main seal is correctly installed with a gasket under the flange and copper sealing washers under the heads of the two lower bolts that are installed from the inside of the crankcase, there should be no leaks. You have to be very careful when installing the flange and seal assembly so you don’t damage the seal surface. Coat the surfaces with gasket sealer before installing a new gasket between the seal flange and the block. There is a half moon flange that goes over the top of the seal flange where the three upper bolts are installed from the clutch side. Regular flat washers are installed under the heads of these three bolts. The flange has two square nuts welded to it for the lower two bolts that are installed with the copper sealing washers from the inside of the crankcase. Ferguson originally serviced the seal and flange as a complete assembly and as a seal only that was installed in the old flange. The seal only was usually the one that was included in the engine overhaul gasket kits. You have to be very careful in installing a new seal in an old flange in order to get it seated squarely. Installing a seal and flange assembly was usually done to avoid the problems associated with replacing the seal only. Sadly, I do not believe the seal and flange assemblies are available any longer. The assembly was sold as part number 1750216M92. The gasket under the seal is part number 1750112M1. The copper washers were available under two part numbers, 1002044M1 and 1751636M1

Q: I recently bought a 1950 TO 20 and have put to much money into it to let it set. After I got it running it is popping through the air cleaner. Seems like when I idle it down it stops popping or backing fire. Do you think it might be a cracked head or bad valves? I Hate to say this but looks like some oil in water. Any help is greatly appreciated. November 19, 2014.

A: Here are some possibilities: There is a buildup of carbon in the combustion chambers. There is a cracked distributor cap. The plug wires need to be replaced. There is a bad spark plug. The spark plugs are the wrong spark plugs. The timing needs to be reset. The advance mechanism in your distributor is not working. The point gap or dwell angle needs to be reset. The carburetor needs to be adjusted.

Q: I am rebuilding the oil pump on my TO30. It seems to be to tight when I put it together. Can you tell me what is wrong? November 1, 2014.

A: Here is a copy of the section on rebuilding the oil pump from the Dealer Shop Manual. I would wonder if the new shaft is properly seated deep enough in the casting and if the drive gear inside the pump is installed with the correct side facing the cover plate side of the pump. If the bushing is not seated deep enough in the housing it will push the drive gear up towards the cover. A problem can occur when the aluminum drive gear is not pressed squarely on the shaft of the pump drive gear.

It is also possible the shaft was bent when the aluminum gear was installed. You should be able to check this with a dial gauge while turning the aluminum gear. The dial gauge will have to be secured to the pump body with a fixture or magnetic mount. Try turning the drive gear with the cover installed and the driven gear left out and see if the binding still occurs.

The clearances listed in the procedure should also be checked. The proper gasket is also important. The original gasket was lead but the ones now are a black gasket material. The thickness of the gasket is important. Because the clearance between the side of gears and the cover is important to maximize pump output the clearance should be just enough so the gears turn freely.

It is possible to reduce the thickness of the gear that is too thick by using a lapping plate. A lapping plate is a sheet of flat glass machinists use to fit parts. Lapping compound or a piece of water wet abrasive paper of a very fine grit it placed on the glass along with some light oil and the part is moved in circles over the surface to remove a slight amount of material. Mylar backed abrasive paper works best and it needs to be a very fine grit and changed frequently for good results. You can find articles on this on the internet.

Q: What is your recommendation for main engine oil, I am presently using Mobil 5000 10-W 30, I live in Illinois so I will not be using Fergie much in the winter. I have good oil pressure 35 # drops to 25 when bush hogging on a hot day, the engine coolant temperature is 150, cylinder pressure check is within spec’s. October 13, 2015.

A: Ferguson specified 30 wt. oil for warm weather and 20 wt. oil for cold weather. You can find this information in the operator’s manual and on the engine serial number tag. As long as you have good oil pressure you should be ok using 10w30. If you find the oil pressure dropping while working in warm or hot weather, I would recommend sticking to the 30 wt. as specified.

Q: I live in Central Vermont. I found you folks after stumbling across the Air Force tractor that David Lory has, and striking up a conversation about that tractor with him. What a great magazine and group!! After having to tend to a leaky rear main oil seal on my grandfathers TO 20 I had never noticed, but the engine ID stamping on the lower left side of the engine block isn’t stamped Z120 like I would expect, however is stamped Z129. The engine block was cast to have the external oil filter, but wasn’t machined to use that location, the engine has the sump installed filter, so my question is: why would the engine appear to be a correct Z120, but actually have the stampings of the larger engine? I thought the Z129 engine was only used on the TO 30 tractors? I do not know the history of this tractor, my grandfather purchased it used in the early eighties. Oddly enough, the engine serial number plate was missing, and I know when he bought the tractor the engine was supposedly to have been freshly rebuilt. I was thinking that possibly at some point the engine block had been replaced. I was always told the engines had a knack to getting block cracks if they had been severely overheated, I don’t know if that is true or not. October 1, 2014.

A: Your TO-20 has a late production Z120 replacement block. The original Z120 block was replaced at some time. When production of the Z129 engine was begun, the tooling/pattern for the Z120 block was modified to create the pattern for the Z129 block. It was then possible to use castings made with the new Z129 tooling/pattern to also make Z120 replacement blocks.

The bosses for the side mounted oil filter and the generator bracket can be found on these replacement Z120 blocks but the blocks are bored and finished as Z120 blocks. The engine serial number plate was supposed to be removed from the old block and placed on the new block. The new block was shipped with new rivets to install the serial number plate. Obviously whoever replaced the block did not install the old serial number plate.

Q: Was the vertical exhaust a factory option for the Ferguson 40. If so what did it look like? Do you have a reference for the replacement part. September26, 2014.

A: I got your pictures. The manifold and elbow look correct. It looks like you will need an original style muffler, an exhaust pipe and a clamp. You indicated you wanted to use a vertical exhaust so here are the parts you will need from the Steiner Tractor Parts catalog. www.SteinerTractor.com 182609M1 Muffler Steiner #MFS 177 $35.70, 182697M1 Exhaust Pipe, vertical Steiner #MFS 175 23.10, Clamp, 1 1/2″ Steiner #ABC 341 9.95. This will give you the original style vertical exhaust. Similar parts are available from other sources as well including Stevenstractor.com

Q: I’m new to owning a ferguson. My plan is to restore and have some fun along the way. The tractor does not run. I just started step by step to see what I have. The motor turns free but, the cylinder head may be cracked. The starter is bad and the shifter lever is stuck, but not in gear. I’ve read of a possible faster starter that would be an improvement over replacing with original model, do you have any details of this? Any suggestions, of the best place to find standard diesel parts for this tractor? July 28, 2014.

A: Some parts for this engine are still available from AGCO Massey Ferguson. Since more of these tractors were sold in Canada and the UK, parts are often available there that are not available here. Sparex, an after-market parts supplier, that is now owned by AGCO, has most of the common parts for the Standard Motors diesel engine. Many dealers, particularly Ford (now New Holland) and Massey Ferguson (now AGCO) sell Sparex parts. Sparex parts can also be special ordered from Steiner Tractor Parts.

There may well be a replacement starter available that is better than the original however, when the original is in good condition and the proper size battery cables are used along with two batteries as originally used, the starter should work fine. This engine has always been a hard starter, particularly when cold. Later models used glo-plugs instead of the manifold pre-heater and this does improve starting. The glo-plugs can be added to the cylinder head by most competent machine shops. I can supply you with a wiring diagram to wire them if you need one.

Q: I recently bought a 1957 Massey Ferguson F40. I don’t know a lot about it’s history, but it had no spark when I got it. I replaced the battery, points, condenser, rotor, cap, plug wires, plugs, and coil, and changed the oil, oil filter, and fuel filter. It fired right up after I finished all of that, and the engine sounds great. But I haven’t run it much because it has no oil pressure.

I tried attaching a new oil pressure gauge, but still no pressure. I’d really appreciate any advice you can give me. Since it sounds so good when it does run, I wonder if it would be worthwhile to drop the pan, replace the oil pump and the main and rod bearing. July 6, 2014

A: I would suggest doing a compression test on the engine to see what condition it is in. If that indicates a problem I would suggest doing a complete overhaul including rebuilding the oil pump and turning the crankshaft. If the compressions seems good you can drop the oil pan, pull the oil pump and rebuild it, and replace the main and rod bearings.

Unfortunately not everyone rebuilds the oil pump when they overhaul the tractor and that can cause the oil pressure to be low. The pump is easy to remove once you drop the oil pan. There are aftermarket kits that contain everything you need to rebuild the oil pump, including the pressure control spring. The oil pressure control spring can also be replaced without rebuilding the oil pump once you drop the oil pan. The oil pressure can be increased by placing 1/4″ flat washers between the bottom of the pressure control spring and the cotter pin that holds it in place. It usually takes just 2 or 3 washers to raise the pressure. There is a special spacer available for this purpose but the 1/4″ flat washers work just as well and are much cheaper.

You may want to pull a couple of bearing caps and inspect the bearings if you drop the oil pan. If the crank looks good and they are not badly worn you can probably get by with just replacing them. If the crank shows wear I would consider doing a complete overhaul and grinding the crank. If you pull the rear main cap, remember to install new packing material to seal it.

The packing material is very similar to cotton string. These blocks did not have camshaft bearings originally but as you have learned, the block can be line bored and camshaft bearings installed. The camshaft bearings are usually hard to find but I am going to check out the website noted on the facebook post and order some just to have them

Q: I am rebuilding a Z129 engine from a TO30, and I am having a hard time locating Cylinder head studs, and an oil pan drain plug. It seems these would be easy parts to find, but I’ve searched Yesterday’s Tractors, Steiner, SSB, Walt’s, and several others with no luck. Any help you can give would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance. June 26, 2014.

A: I will have to do some checking but these drain plugs have become hard to find. I will do a dealer search and see if I can locate one for you. As for the studs, there are two different lengths used, 1 7/8″ which is part number 353964X1 and 4 11/16″ which is part number 1035877m1. Both of these are still available from AGCO Massey Ferguson. Contact a local dealer or go the the following link. Jacks Small Engines Parts Search Database

Q: I recently bought a 1957 Massey Ferguson F40. I don’t know a lot about it’s history, but it had no spark when I got it. I replaced the battery, points, condenser, rotor, cap, plug wires, plugs, and coil, and changed the oil, oil filter, and fuel filter. It fired right up after I finished all of that, and the engine sounds great. But I haven’t run it much because it has no oil pressure. I tried attaching a new oil pressure gauge, but still no pressure. I’d really appreciate any advice you can give me. Since it sounds so good when it does run, I wonder if it would be worthwhile to drop the pan, replace the oil pump and the main and rod bearings. But this is the first one of these I’ve ever worked on, so I don’t even know how difficult that is, or if it would be a waste of time. Fortunately, I didn’t pay a lot of money for the tractor, but I sure would like to get it fixed. I’m not trying to do a restoration. I just want it to run reliably.

A: I would suggest doing a compression test on the engine to see what condition it is in. If that indicates a problem I would suggest doing a complete overhaul including rebuilding the oil pump and turning the crankshaft. If the compressions seems good you can drop the oil pan, pull the oil pump and rebuild it and replace the main and rod bearings.

Unfortunately not everyone rebuilds the oil pump when they overhaul the tractor and that can cause the oil pressure to be low. The pump is easy to remove once you drop the oil pan. There are aftermarket kits that contain everything you need to rebuild the oil pump, including the pressure control spring. The oil pressure control spring can also be replaced without rebuilding the oil pump once you drop the oil pan.

The oil pressure can be increased by placing 1/4″ flat washers between the bottom of the pressure control spring and the cotter pin that holds it in place. It usually takes just 2 or 3 washers to raise the pressure. There is a special spacer available for this purpose but the 1/4″ flat washers work just as well and are much cheaper.

You may want to pull a couple of bearing caps and inspect the bearings if you drop the oil pan. If the crank looks good and they are not badly worn you can probably get by with just replacing them. If the crank shows wear I would consider doing a complete overhaul and grinding the crank.

If you pull the rear main cap, remember to install new packing material to seal it. The packing material is very similar to cotton string. These blocks did not have camshaft bearings originally but as you have learned, the block can be line bored and camshaft bearings installed. The camshaft bearings are usually hard to find but I am going to check out the website noted on the Facebook post and order some just to have them.

Q: Just got a replacement starter for a TEA 20 Fergy. The guy I bought it from lost the bolts, does anyone know what size bolts this uses. Any help would be appreciated. FENA Facebook, May 24, 2014.

A: The bolts are 7/16″ X 1″ NC with 7/16″ lock washers.

Q: I have a 1955 TO 35. The distributor shaft seized and broke the gear in the engine that turns the distributor shaft. How big of a job is it to replace this gear assembly? Is there a cross-section of the engine anywhere? May 7, 2014.

A: I’ve attached copies of the section on replacing the cam shaft from the TO-35 shop manual. You’ll have to pull the engine and put it on an engine stand in order to turn it over. The engine has to be turned upside down in order to remove the cam shaft. The gear that drives the distributor is on the cam shaft.

Q: What should the oil pressure on my Ferguson be? May 6, 2014

A: The Ferguson On the Farm Service Manual indicates oil pressure for the TE-20, TO-20 and TO-30 should be 25-30 lbs. with the engine warmed to normal operating temperature and running at 2,000 rpm.

Q: I have a TE20 Ferguson tractor. The engine runs, but the pulley coming out of the crankshaft does not turn with the engine. I can turn it easily by hand using a wrench, but the pulley and the crankshaft do not appear to be connected together. The pulley does not seem to be running on the shaft, so I’m wondering, is there a connection inside the engine that can brake and stop the crankshaft from engaging the pulley?

A: The front pulley, crankshaft or fan drive pulley, is held in place by the crank nut but is connected to the crankshaft with a 1/4″ x 1″ woodruff key. I would check to see if the key is still in the crankshaft. You will probably have to remove the hood and radiator and then unbolt the front axle carrier in order to remove the front pulley. The “Crank Nut” is right hand thread bolt — you turn it to the left to remove it. You can verify this by looking at the notches or pawls for the crank pin. You can only turn the crank to the right or clockwise which has a tendency to tighten the crank nut. There is a possibility that the threads on either the crank nut or inside the crankshaft are stripped.

The crank nuts are relatively easy to find if you need to replace it and the female threads in the end of the crankshaft can usually be repaired with a “heli-coil”. You may have to exert some pull on the crank nut while you turn it clockwise in order to remove it if the threads are stripped. You can make a tool to do this by modifying a 6 point socket by drilling and tapping the sides of the socket for set screws that will grip the nut and allow you to exert some pull on the nut. When I did this I used set screws with points on the ends and drilled small impressions in the crank nut at the point where the set screws were located. I then used a “pickle fork” tool to exert a pull on the socket. You can also drill holes in the sides of the socket and then weld the socket to the crank nut. You’ll sacrifice a socket and the crank nut in the process but you should be able to get it out that way.

Q: I am looking for the felts and oil seal O rings for the Sector Shafts on my TO 35.

A: The O rings and Oil Seal are standard parts so I can also give you the manufacturers part numbers for those items and you can get them from a bearing supply house. The O ring, part number 180560M1 is still available. See the attached link from Jack’s for $1.47 ea., you need 2. http://www.jackssmallengines.com/searchdb2.cfm The O ring, part number 180559M1 is also still available, See the attached link from Jack’s for $2.38 ea., you need 2. http://www.jackssmallengines.com/searchdb2.cfm The Felt Dust Seal, part number 180562M1 is still available, See the attached link from Jack’s for $1.30 ea., you need 2. http://www.jackssmallengines.com/searchdb2.cfm The Oil Seal, part number 833455X1 is still available, See the attached link from Jack’s for $11.88 ea., you need 2. http://www.jackssmallengines.com/searchdb2.cfm

Q: I’m in the process of rebuilding a z134 and my cam is bad but, I have a good z120 cam. Can I use the Z120 cam to replace the Z134 cam?

A: The short answer is yes, your TO-20 camshaft will work in the TO-35. Here is the long answer: The early production Z134 engine used the same camshaft as the Z129 used in the TO-30. The later production Z134 engine uses the same camshaft as the Z120 used in the TO- and TE-20, MF part number 1750293M1. The Z129 camshaft used in the TO-30 and early production TO-35, MF part number 1750074M1 was dropped and the Z120 camshaft, MF part number 1750293M1 replaced it.

Today all these engines and the Z145 used in the MF-135 and MF-150 use the same camshaft which is now sold as part number 836543M91 or 836543V91. This last part number is the Z120 camshaft, MF part number 1750293M1, plus an instruction sheet with revised valve tappet clearance settings for the TO-30 engine only.

Q: I have a TO30 with a cracked block. It has tension rods installed by a previous owner but it started leaking coolant into the oil pan. will a different engine, like a Z134, fit this tractor or is welding a better option?

A: Your leaks could be coming from more than one place. It may not be just the old cracks that are leaking. Here are some additional things to check. The piston liners or sleeves are supposed to stand proud or project above the top of the block .001 to .004″. You can check this by installing the sleeves dry, no O rings installed, in the block, placing a straight edge across the top of the sleeve and using a feeler gauge to measure the clearance between the straight edge and the top of the block. Because each hole in the block can be different, you need to check each one.

When you are installing new sleeves you may be able to move the sleeves from hole to hole to achieve the proper projection. There were shims available to shim the sleeves up to achieve the proper projection but they are no longer available. If all the sleeves sit low in the block when dry fit, you can have the top of the block planed to achieve the correct projection. That may also require having the top of one or two sleeves planed to get the proper clearance. I have been told that mechanics in the UK use copper wire under the top lip of the sleeves to achieve the proper projection. I have never done this myself and have no idea how well it works.

The sleeves are supposed to protrude just a bit in order to compress the head gasket and make a good seal. For a good seal the cylinder head and the top of the block should be checked to make sure they are flat. This will have to be done by a machine shop and if necessary, one or both will need to be ground or planed. This may also require some boring of the block where the sleeve flange rests in order to achieve the proper sleeve projection as indicated above. Before installing the head gasket, coat it with Permatex Brand Copper Coat spray, a product designed to make head gaskets seal better. Hang the head gasket on a wire or coat hanger and spray several coats of the Copper Coat on before installing the head gasket. Make sure you follow the sequence for tightening the head bolts and use a torque wrench to make sure they are tightened equally. Make sure the block is clean where the O rings rest and seal. Coat them with a silicone grease before installing them and make sure they are not twisted when you install the sleeves. As for repairing or replacing the block.

You can purchase a rebuilt short block from CT Farm & Country for $2829.06. That includes new pistons and sleeves, reconditioned rods with new wrist pin bushings, a reground crankshaft with new rod and main bearings, and a reground camshaft and bearings if there are bearings for the camshaft. When you consider the price for these parts and services, the price is not that bad if you need to rebuild the engine anyway. I believe welding the block is the best option. Be sure to use a shop or service with experience repairing these engine blocks. The cost often includes a charge for line boring which should always be done after a block is repaired.

You can replace the Z129 block with a Z134 block but there are several modifications that will have to be made to the water pump and pump casting. I have seen tractors that have had this done but I can’t recall what specifically had to be done to make this swap but believe it was just the water pump and body assembly. I think the pump body assembly from the Z129 will fit the Z134, in which case the pump will fit with no problems. The Z129 cylinder head will have to be used in order to maintain the water outlet which contains the front mount for the fuel tank. You will also need to have the oil filter canister for the Z134 as the Z129 version will not fit. The manifold, generator mount, distributor, starter etc should all fit. The Z120 block can also be used to replace the Z129 but to do so you would have to use the Z120 cylinder head and the Z120 generator. Of course you would also have a tractor with less power.

Q: I am considering buying a Craigslist offered TO 35 with a Standard diesel. The engine is problematic and needs service. While reading the various internet posts I see many negative comments about the Standard diesel, and some enthusiastic owners. Could you give some idea what to look for when evaluating the engine/tractor?

A: If you’re looking for a working tractor there is no question those models with the Perkins engine are superior. If you’re looking for a collectable tractor, the TO-35 Standard Diesel is much rarer and much more collectable. The biggest complaint about the Standard Motors diesel is that it is a hard starter and parts are a little hard to come by. Later versions have glo-plugs, which are a big improvement and can be retrofitted to the older engines. The engine still starts hard. When the tractor is fixed up it will no doubt be one that people will want to look at because they are not that common. As for parts to repair the engine, you may have to get them from either Canada or the UK where they are much easier to find. It’s entirely possible these parts are becoming more readily available here in the US as a result of European suppliers making an effort to get them to the North American market and, aftermarket parts companies becoming more international. Companies including AGCO/MF have made significant efforts to meet demand for parts for older tractors and equipment overseas as there was a greater demand. As with any diesel tractor, fuel leaks are a problem and every effort should be made to stop them before any paint is placed on the engine area. I’ve seen some beautiful paint jobs ruined by diesel fuel. I’ve heard that a lot of these tractors have relatively few hours on them so you may be able to find one that is not in need of an overhaul though the injectors should be tested and rebuilt as needed and the pump checked out. The electricals can be a challenge as most of the TO-35 diesels had English gauges and components. These are available but may have to come from the UK. Sparex does have a number of the repair parts for the engine and electricals. Many farmers did away with the second battery box on the left rear axle but having the original two battery system will give you more cranking power and you need it for the Standard engine .

Q: I have a 1950 TO 20, and two TO 30’s. Do you know where I can get the TOP PART OF THE AIR CLEANER THAT ATTACHES FROM THE FILTER UNIT TO THE SCREEN ON THE DASH?

A: The hose that connects the screened inlet on the dash to the top of the air cleaner, Ferguson part #180362M1, is a reproduction part available from after-market suppliers like Steiner Tractor Parts. Steiner sells it as part number MFS2247 for $16.95.

Q: I am sending you some pictures of my 1950 to 20 and my 1954 TO 30 air cleaners. They look old but are they original equipment? If not, how can I get the original equipment?

A: Neither the top on the air cleaner assembly or the metal top in the first picture appear to be original Ferguson parts. I suspect they are part of an after-market air cleaner or pre-cleaner system. I will send you pictures showing whatthe original set-up should look like.

Four of your pictures show a pre-cleaner accessory. Most of these were made by two companies, Harco and Cyclone. One appears to need the glass jar. The jar and the clip to hold it in place are available as reproduction parts. Looking at the assembly I suspect you can remove that part that is clamped around the top of the air cleaner assembly and you may find that all you need is the hose to connect it to the dash screen.

You will also need the metal tube that goes between the air cleaner and the carburetor. The one on the TO-30 is different than the one on the TO-20 as is the air cleaner assembly.

The unit in the second picture has had that tube replaced with a piece of flexible radiator hose. Just because they are unusual, I would save the complete pre-cleaner assembly and restore it. Original replacement air cleaners are usually available online on sites like Craigslist and EBay. They are also for sale in tractor salvage yards.

Many early Ferguson tractors are becoming unrepairable and people are selling them for scrap or salvage. It is a shame to scrap them but, at least they are being used as parts to restore others.

If you buy a salvage yard replacement you will likely need to clean the filter medium. In most circumstances it cannot be removed. I always found the best way to flush them out and wash them was to set them in a parts washer with a hose coming from the spout of the parts washer going into the air cleaner outlet, the end that connects to the tube that goes to the carburetor.

Turn on the parts washer and let the solvent run through the element for as much as an hour, or more. You can rotate the air cleaner as needed to make sure you are flushing out all sides of the filter material. When the solvent starts to run clean out the bottom, drain the air cleaner and blow it out with compressed air.

Put the air hose in the same outlet fitting and blow it you. Then put the hose from the parts washer spout back into the outlet fitting and flush it again. You will be able to clean it out but you may have to repeat this process several times. Avoid using gasoline. Parts washer solvent, which is almost the same as mineral spirits, is much safer to use than gasoline.

If you don’t have access to a parts washer, use a 5 gallon pail and purchase several gallons of paint thinner or mineral spirits, the solvent based stuff, not the water based stuff. You can reuse this solvent if you let it set a while, like a week or more, until the solids sink to the bottom of the container and you pour off the liquid. Put the air cleaner assembly upside down in the bucket and keep pouring the solvent into the bottom until it runs out of the out let end. Keep dumping the solvent in the 5 gallon bucket into another bucket and repeat the process. Let it soak for a while and again, repeat the process. This will take longer but it will work.

Q: I am having difficulty removing the 11/16th inch square oil pan drain plug (part 750 273 M1) from the pan of my TO-30. Is there a special wrench available? My typical hand wrenches (combination and crescent) combined with penetrating oil and tapping with a hammer haven’t been able to do the trick. I am afraid of rounding the plug edges any further. And the very shallow clearance between the top of the plug and the case prevents the use of my ratchet and sockets. Do you have any suggestions?

A: All I can recommend is brute force. I’ve found that a large crescent or adjustable wrench with nice tight sharp jaws works well, or a good open end wrench with no wear. The penetrating oil and tapping the end of the wrench with a hammer will also help to break it lose. New drain plugs are available but the copper gaskets are kind of pricey.

I’ve know people to weld a hex nut onto the plug to get a better grip with a wrench. That’s not easy to do but, it can be done. Someone put it on too tight I suspect, possibly because the gasket was leaking.

Another option is to remove the oil pan. Wear old clothes, put down some oil dry and get someone to help because it’s hard to balance and hold the pan up when it’s full of oil. Once removed you can turn it upside down on your work bench or other flat surface and use a socket for square head bolts in an impact wrench to remove it. The ratchet like banging of the impact can free just about anything. If the corners of the plug get rounded off, weld a nut to it and use the impact to remove it.

Q: I purchased a valve rebuild kit for a Continental z120 motor and it came with out the valve keepers (used on pin type valves). I need the sheet metal retainers. Can you advise? Maybe they can be machined/made from mildly heat-treated steel?

A: According to MF parts which I just linked to via Jacks Small Engines, the guards, part number 1750061M1, are still available. See the link below. Jacks is an MF dealer that sells parts on line. They are a bit pricey, $8.84 each, but I don’t think you’d mind if you can get them. http://www.jackssmallengines.com/searchdb2.cfm