Differing Rear Tire Sizes, Stud Replacement

I live in Stoney Creek, Ontario, the heart of the Niagara Fruit Belt. I have my fathers 1953 Harry Ferguson tractor. An 11.2x 28 tire blew and I replaced it with a 12.4 x 28 tire I got from a neighbor. It is a little tight on the fender but it is okay but, I broke a couple wheel studs. Will the difference between the tire sizes do any harm if I use them for a short time? And, how do I replace the wheel studs?

There should be no problem operating with a 11.2 x 28″ tire on one side and a 12.4 x 28″ tire on the other for a short period of time. The differential will compensate for the difference in their circumferences. As for the larger tire being closer to the fender, if you are concerned you can change the rear wheel spacing to move it away from the fender. However, you should be able to use 12.4″ width tires in the same wheel settings with no problems.

The 12.4″ x 28″ tire, which is the old 11″ x 28″ size, was a optional size on these tractors early on and became the standard size in later years. The studs are relatively easy to replace after you remove the wheel and brake drum.

Make sure the tractor is resting on heavy duty blocking and not just on a jack for the next step. Rotate the axle until the damaged stud is in a position where it can be pushed out the back of the axle hub. That position should be apparent as you inspect the area behind the axle flange. Once in this position use an air chisel with a stud remover tip to hammer the stud in towards the tractor and it will push out the back of the axle flange.

If you do not have access to an air chisel with a stud remover you can use a heavy hammer to drive the stud out. Remove the stud and insert a new stud. Use a new 9/16″ NF nut with a heavy washer to pull the new stud into the axle flange. I recommend purchasing some new 9/16″ NF thread nuts to install the studs. Use standard nuts to save your lug nuts. Keep checking the condition of the threads on the nuts and change to a new nut when the threads begin to show fatigue.

When you have reached the end of the thread on the new stud you will have to insert more washers of some sort of spacer, like an oversize nut, to use as filler to draw the stud all the way in. When the head of the stud is tight against the back of the axle flange, you are done and ready to move to the next stud.

The studs and nuts are available from AGCO/MF and numerous after-market suppliers. The original part number for the stud is 185 400 M1 or 181 260 M1. If the studs are bad you might want to consider replacing the nuts as well, original part number 180 004 M1. If you are unable to locate the studs and nuts, let me know as I usually stock them and can sell them to you.