FENA: Electrical System

Electrical System

Question: How do I set the timing on my TO 30?

Answer: Harry Ferguson considered maintaining correct timing an important task. He constantly preached the need to maintain Ferguson tractors and equipment in the highest state of repair to obtain the maximum level of performance. Failure to perform as desired was usually attributed to failure to maintain.

Start by checking the static timing and then check it with a timing light. To set the static timing. Remove the number 1 spark plug, and the timing hole cover. Mark the position of the distributor cap tower with the wire going to the number 1 spark plug on the side of the distributor. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and dust cap, and then reinstall the rotor.

Have an assistant slowly turn the engine with the hand crank or put the tractor in reverse gear, put your thumb over the number 1 spark plug hole, and slowly rock the tractor backwards while checking for the timing marks to appear in the timing hole. Continue rocking the tractor backwards or slowly crank the tractor until the “0” or “DC” mark appears, and you feel pressure or compression on your thumb from the cylinder. When the “0” or “DC ” mark lines up with the line on the edge of the timing hole and there is pressure on your thumb the piston will be at top dead center or TDC. In this position, the rotor should be lined up with mark on the side of the distributor.

If the rotor is pointing to another tower/cylinder, the distributor will have to be removed, the rotor turned slightly and the distributor reinstalled. Loosen the screw clamp at the base of the distributor to remove the distributor. Because the teeth on the distributor gear are curved, the rotor will rotate a few degrees when the distributor is installed. To compensate for this movement, move the rotor a few degrees back of the mark before installing the distributor. If the rotor is just a degree or two off from lining up with the mark you made for the number one tower, rotate the distributor and tighten the clamp. Install the dust cover, rotor, distributor cap, spark plug and plug with. The engine should start. If it does not, recheck the above. Once the engine starts the timing should be set with a timing light.

Question: Do you know what was original switch on 1948 TE-20? I seem to be having trouble finding the correct switch on this 6V system?

Question: I plan on rewiring a 1953 TO-30 that has been converted to 12 volts. I plan on using the “Wiring Diagram for Ferguson TO-30, Continental gasoline engine w/generator (modified to 12 volt) from the FENA website. Do you know what the original color codes for the wires. The diagram is in black and white with no direction on what color the individual wires should be? February 5, 2016.

Answer: I’ve attached a wiring diagram that indicates the wire colors. The TO-30 diagram is the one at the bottom of the page.

You indicated you converted your 6 volt generator to 12 volts. When I convert these generators to 12 volts I change the field coils and the armature. I’m not sure your generator will have the correct 12 volt output unless you changed both the armature and the field coils.
When you convert from 6 volts to 12 volts you also need to change the ignition coil and the voltage regulator.

When you change the ignition coil to 12 volts you need to reverse the wires going to the coil. When converted to 12 volts, the negative (-) terminal on the ignition coil needs to be connected to the wire going to the terminal on the side of the distributor. The positive (+) coil terminal should be connected to the wire going to the ignition switch.

When installing the 12 volt battery, the negative (-) battery terminal should be connected to the ground strap, and the positive (+) battery terminal should be connected to the cable going to the starter switch. Remember to polarize the generator before you start the tractor. This was all covered in a recent issue of Ferguson Furrows. http://fergusontractors.org/fena/wp-content/uploads/Polarizing-a-Generator.pdf

You may wish to consider purchasing a new wiring harness from Agri-Services. Agri-Services manufactures a very nice reproduction wiring harness that is an exact duplicate of the original. When you consider the quality and the cost to accurately reproduce these wiring harnesses you will understand why they are worth the price.

When you convert a TO-30 from 6 volts to 12 volts there is no change in the color of the wires using a 12 volt generator. The only change is in the components, generator, voltage regulator, and ignition coil but you must also reverse the polarity on the ignition coil wires and the battery cables. You can retain the original 6 volt starter as long as you only crank the starter for short periods of time. Cranking for long periods can burn up the starter. If that happens either have the starter rebuilt as a 12 volt or replace it with the 12 volt starter used on the TO-35 gas tractor.

Remember, these tractors work just fine with the original 6 volt system as long as all the components, starter, generator, voltage regulator, ignition coil, spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, points, condenser and fuel system are kept in good working order. Converting to 12 volts is no cure for failing to maintain these components. Starting problems are usually the result of undersize battery cables, a weak battery, a worn starter that needs rebuilding, or battery terminals that need cleaning or a tractor that needs a tune-up.

Question: The charging system on my 6V system “30” has quit. I have two related questions: How do I troubleshoot a generator system, and why should you not start the engine (as per the polarization procedure) before polarizing the generator? December 2, 2015.

Answer: Problems in the charging system have to be in either the battery, wiring, ammeter, voltage regulator or generator.

If you have replaced the battery, check that the positive terminal is connected to the ground strap, and the negative terminal is connected to the cable going to the starter switch. Make sure the other end of the ground strap is making a good connection to ground, in this case, the bolt on the back of the dash that secures the upper steering gear casting.

The condition of the ammeter should also be checked. Is the ammeter showing any movement when the ignition switch is turned on or the lights are turned on? If the distributor points are closed the needle should move slightly to the left or discharge side. Turning the lights on, if the tractor has lights, should cause the ammeter to move to discharge as well.

Once the tractor starts and is revved up enough for the cutout in the voltage regulator to close, it should move to the right or charge side. If there is no movement, it is possible the ammeter is bad in which case the generator will not charge.

The most common problem with these systems is the voltage regulator. A simple way to check the regulator is to temporarily ground the generator “F” field terminal by attaching a short jumper wire between the “F” terminal and ground. This will bypass the regulator and put the generator in the high charge mode. If the ammeter shows charge with the “F” terminal grounded with the jumper wire, the voltage regulator is bad and needs to be replaced.

There are other tests that can be performed if you have a Ferguson On the Farm Service Unit which has a combination volt meter/ammeter with a variable resistance load. With this instrument the voltage regulator, battery and generator can be tested and adjusted. Without that option you will have to take the generator and possibly the regulator to an automotive electrical repair facility, or starter alternator shop and have them bench tested.

You can use a voltage test along with the voltage regulator test I suggested. An increase in voltage at the battery between the not running and running state at or above 1,000 RPM would be the result of generator output. A similar test is part of the series run with the Ferguson On the Farm test unit.

The system should be polarized whenever the generator or regulator are disconnected. As I understand it, polarizing sets electricity flowing in the right direction which is essential for the generator to charge. Failure to do so can cause burned relay points in the voltage regulator, run down the battery or damage the generator.

Q: I have a MF65 that dies after it warms up. It will start again but die unless I let it cool. I have replaced the coil, points, plugs, and had the carburetor rebuilt, Is there another fuel filter other than the sediment bowl? Could the condenser cause this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. June 18, 2015.

A: My first guess would be the coil. Do you know if both the original coil and the replacement coil had an internal resistor? Many of the replacement coils do not have internal resistors which they should have, like the original Delco Remy coils. As for fuel filters, some of the 65’s have two fuel filters: one inside the sediment bowl, and one inside the tank.

The filter in the tank usually does not become clogged but, sometimes the standpipes inside the tank, which have a brass screen around them, become clogged by bits of dirt, rust, and water. You may want to try removing the sediment bowl valve-assembly from the tank, and flush the tank.

Water in the fuel can cause the engine to stall. After you flush the tank, fill it with fresh fuel, preferably from an alternate source than your current fuel comes from. If you have your own fuel storage tank, get fuel from an alternate source. Check your fuel line and make sure there are no crimps or bends restricting the flow.

Also, check where the line is routed. Make sure it is routed as it was originally, and does not come too close to the manifold or block. The heat can cause a vapor lock. Check the vent on your fuel tank cap. If the vent is plugged, it will restrict the flow of fuel to the carburetor. Check your air cleaner to make sure the carburetor is getting an adequate supply of air. The metal mesh can become plugged over time, and needs to be flushed out. You can check this by temporarily disconnecting the air cleaner hose at the carburetor.

Check the radiator and cooling system to make sure the tractor is not overheating. The condenser could be a problem but it is unlikely you have two bad condensers. The same goes for the coil. You may also want to consider replacing the coil wire. That is the high tension lead from the coil to the center of the distributor cap.

Q: My daughter wants a Ferguson tractor at her wedding; her grandfather was a Ferguson man “all the way”. Can you tell me how to fix the timing on my TO30 for her wedding? June 8, 2015.

A: To static time the engine: 1. Remove the number one spark plug. 2. Crank the engine until the number one piston starts up on the compression stroke (this can be determined by holding your thumb over the spark plug hole) and reaches top dead center. Note: The exact top dead center can be obtained by removing the timing hole plug from the left side of the engine /clutch housing. The “DC” mark should be lined up with the mark on the housing. 3. Remove the distributor and turn the rotor of the distributor until it points to the number one cylinder plug wire terminal on the inside of the distributor cap. (Make a mark on the body of the distributor with the cap in place to make this easier.) 4. Install the assembly into the block in this manner, rotor pointing to the number one plug wire terminal. Note: Due to the nature of the curved teeth the spiral gears on the camshaft and distributor, the rotor will rotate a few degrees when the assembly is installed in the block. It may be necessary to compensate for this by setting the rotor a few degrees back of the of the extension/number one position. 5. Tighten the clamp bolt to secure the assembly to the block. To accurately time the engine, a timing light should be used when the engine is running.

Q: I have just purchased a non-running 1952 To30 S/N 75045 with the Z129 S/N 314140 and I’m trying to figure out the Delco Remy Generator (1100326) it has on it. Did these come with a 12v generator but a 6v ignition system? June 10, 2015.

A: Delco generator #1100 326 is the OEM generator for 1955-1957 Chevrolet Bel Airs, 6 and V8 engines. Therefore it is likely this generator was a salvage generator from one of those cars. The generator was never used on any Ferguson or Massey Ferguson equipment. It is possible the drive pulley from the original generator was mounted on this generator in order to use the original fan belt. Someone apparently converted your TO-30 to 12 volts.

To operate correctly the voltage regulator should have also been changed. Most voltage regulators have the voltage and ground printed on the back. You may be able to find that printing on the back of the voltage regulator. The regulator should say, “12 volt negative ground” to work with this generator.

A 12 volt battery would be wired with the negative terminal connected to vehicle ground (chassis, castings, engine). The coil could be a 12 volt coil as there is no difference in the outward appearance between 6 and 12 volt coils though most have the operating voltage printed on the bottom or side.

The ignition coils used on these tractors should be the type with an internal resistor. The coil used on a 1955-57 Chevrolet would have also had an internal resistor. The coil resistor has nothing to do with changing the coil operating voltage from 12 to 6 volts. When wired for a 12 volt negative ground system, the positive terminal on the primary side of the coil should be connected to the wire coming from the ignition switch and the negative terminal should be connected to the wire going to the side of the distributor. There is no difference between the 6 volt distributor originally used on the Z129 engine and the 12 volt distributor used on the later model TO-35 tractors with 12 volt negative ground systems. The points and condenser are the same. The original 6 volt starter could be used if you are careful not to crank it too long so it overheats. Most 12 volt starters used on the TO-35 tractors with Z-134 engines can be installed on the Z-129 engine, so it is possible you could have a 12 volt starter. If you have the Delco model number I should be able to tell you if it is 6 or 12 volts. The original TO-30 gear shift operated starter switch will work with a 12 system without modification. Your TO-30 came from the factory with a 6 volt positive ground electrical system. The positive battery terminal would have been connected to vehicle ground, (chassis, casting, block). The back of the voltage regulator would have 6 volt negative ground printed on it. The 6 volt coil would have been wired with the negative primary terminal connected to the wire coming from the ignition switch. The positive primary terminal on the coil would have been connected to the wire going to the side of the distributor.

FYI It is possible to convert a 6 volt TO-30 or TO-35 to 12 volts and make it look original by using TO-35, 12 volt electrical components (battery, generator, voltage regulator, coil and for the TO-35, starter solenoid, but that does not appear to be the case with your tractor.

It is also possible to convert a TO-20 from 6 to 12 volts and make it look original by changing the generator field coils and armature as well as the voltage regulator and coil. You may also have to reverse the wires on the ammeter If the tractor is equipped with lights, the bulbs should be changed to 12 volt bulbs.

If you install a 12 volt battery and are satisfied with the operation of this electrical conversion it will probably work satisfactorily. If you wish to make your TO-30 look original you will likely need the correct generator, voltage regulator, ignition coil and possibly the starter. You may also need to change the bulbs if the tractor is equipped with lights.

Q: Would you please clarify the function of the resisters in the electrical system of a Ferguson system, specifically one that has been converted to 12 volts. And, what polarity adjustments are made in the system? June 2, 2015.

A: First, the matter of internal and external resistors for ignition coils. You know how the lights dim on a car, truck or tractor when you engage the starter while the lights are on.? The starter is demanding all the electricity it can get to turn over the engine. That leaves everything else starving for electricity. The ignition coil needs electricity to fire the spark plugs and that need is critical when starting the engine.

Early automotive engineers determined that an ignition coil requiring less current would provide adequate spark to fire the spark plugs. However, once the engine started and the generator began producing current, and the starter no longer required current, the coil would overheat and burn out as it began receiving more electricity/current.

The solution was to install a regulating device in the primary side of the coil wiring to reduce the current going to the coil after the engine starts, and yet allow adequate current flow to the coil when the starter was engaged. That regulating device is the ignition coil resistor. The resistor acts as a regulator, allowing adequate current to flow to the ignition coil to provide a good spark while the starter is engaged and limit the amount of current flowing to the coil once the engine starts.

Some companies, Delco Remy for example, built resistors into their coils to eliminate the need for an external resistor. Most Ferguson tractors, TO-20, TO-30, TO-35, MF-35, F-40, etc. have Delco Remy ignition systems using ignition coils with built-in resistors.

Most Ford tractors Ford 9N, 2N, 8N, NAA, etc. have Autolite ignition systems utilizing ignition coils that require external resistors. (The ignition coil resistor on the 9N/2N is located on the back of the dash above the ammeter.) Therefore, when an ignition coil that does not have an internal resistor is installed on a Ferguson tractor, an external resistor must be added to the ignition circuit.

Second, regarding 6 volt ignition systems converted to 12 volts. When a 6 volt ignition system is converted to 12 volts either a 12 volt coil must be installed or a resistor installed in the circuit to reduce the coil voltage to 6 volts. The resistor regulates the voltage, keeping it at 6 volts, allowing the original 6 volt coil to be used in a 12 electrical system. Those two situations are independent of each other however, when a 6 volt ignition system utilizing a 6 volt coil with an external resistor is converted to 12 volts, two different resistors are required. The original coil resistor for the ignition coil requiring an external resistor and the resistor to drop the voltage from 12 volts to 6 volts for the 6 volt coil.

If a 6 volt ignition system is converted to 12 volts and has an original Delco style 6 volt coil with an internal resistor, the original 6 volt coil with internal resistor can be used if a voltage reducing resistor, reducing 12 volts to 6 volts is installed in the coil circuit. If a 6 volt ignition system is converted to 12 volts and a Delco style 12 volt coil with an internal resistor is installed as part of the conversion, no external resistors are required.

Regarding polarity. Most 12 volt ignition systems are negative ground systems, meaning the negative (-) battery terminal is connected to ground (the frame/castings/engine.) The positive terminal on the ignition coil primary is connected to the ignition switch. Most 6 volt ignition systems are positive ground systems, meaning the positive (+) battery terminal is connected to ground, and the negative terminal on the ignition coil primary is connected to the ignition switch. When a 6 volt ignition system is converted to 12 volts, the coil must be wired for a 12 volt system, regardless of the voltage rating of the coil. In other words, the coil wiring must be changed so the positive terminal on the ignition coil primary is connected to the ignition switch. The 12 volt battery must be connected so the negative (-) battery terminal is connected to ground.

There are alternators that require external voltage regulators. The first alternators used on cars trucks and tractors used external voltage regulators. The MF 100 series tractors were the first ones to use Delco alternators with external regulators. The Delco regulators used with these alternators used a “harmonica connector” on the voltage regulator wiring. The voltage regulators used with alternators are not the same as those used with generators.

Those 12 volt Delco electrical systems, including the alternator and voltage regulator, were all negative ground systems. That being said, if you have a 12 volt alternator on a tractor, it is most likely negative ground and the system would use a 12 volt battery wired with the negative (-) terminal connected to ground.

Q: I have a TO30 Ferguson tractor and I want to install electronic ignition; is there a wiring diagram available? May 18, 2015.

A: The manufacturers of these systems, like Petronix, include installation instructions, and wiring diagrams with their products. I suspect you can go to their website, http://www.pertronix.com/to obtain a copy of their installation instructions.

As for a wiring diagram for the TO-30, our website has a copy of the original 6 volt positive ground wiring diagram for the TO-30.

http://fergusontractors.org/fena/tractor-info/wiring-diagrams

There is also a simple diagram for wiring a 12V Delco alternator with an internal voltage regulator. If you or someone has converted your tractor to 12 volt negative ground, they may or may not have wired it according to this diagram. When converting to 12 volt positive ground you must also change the wiring on the coil, connecting the positive primary terminal to the switched side of the ignition switch. You also need a 12 volt coil with an internal resistor.

The original 6 volt coil with internal resistor can be used if you use a step down resistor, 12 volts to 6 volts. If you are using either a 6 volt or 12 volt coil without an internal resistor, you will also need the external resistor for the coil. The coil resistor plus the step down resistor is needed if you are using a 12 volt coil without an internal resistor.

Q: I am looking looking for a wiring diagram for my 1949 TO 20, I have to rewire it. May 10, 2015.

A: You can find a copy of the original wiring diagram on your FENA web site, under resources. See the link below.

http://fergusontractors.org/fena/wp-content/uploads/TO-20-with-red-light-Wiring-Diagram.pdf

A 1949 TO-20 would be a TO-20. These were originally equipped with a discharge warning light and no ammeter but Ferguson supplied instructions to install an ammeter if the customer wanted one. Wiring diagrams for a TO-20 with the original warning light, and one with an ammeter are available on our website.

There is also a wiring diagram to install a Delco alternator though I suggest you retain the original 6 volt positive ground electrical system. Some people seem to think converting to 12 volts improves starting but often the problem is their starter needs rebuilding or repair or the battery cables are undersize. Clean terminals, cables of the correct gauge and a good ground connection are more important with 6 volt systems.

The starters on these tractors are small but when kept in good working order will work just fine. If you do convert to a 12 volts, alternator or generator, you will have to install a 12 volt coil, wired with the primary side (+) positive terminal connected to the ignition switch. With the 6 volt positive ground system, the primary side (-) negative terminal is connected to the ignition switch. If you are careful you can use the original 6 volt starter as long as you don’t crank it for long periods of time and cause it to overheat.

You will find other wiring diagrams and other resources on our website.

Q: Does the coil draw enough current to blow a 20 amp fuse? I put a 20 amp fuse near the solenoid to protect the system. I keep blowing that fuse when I switch the ignition key from ignition to ignition and lights, and lights only. At this point I have not connected lights. I have checked the switch and there does not appear to be a short between the terminals and the body of the switch; however, I did not blow fuses when I had the switch just hanging by the wires and switched it back and forth. May 5, 2015.

A: I am not sure what is causing the fuse you installed to blow though, I would question if a 20 amp fuse is adequate. Ferguson does not install a fuse in this circuit so this is uncharted ground. When you consider that a 20 amp fuse is needed to handle the load of the lights, the fuse in the main circuit must be large enough to handle the load of the tractor electrical system plus 20 amps. However, since you say you have nothing connected to the lighting circuit I am assuming you have nothing connected to the “L” terminal? If that is the case, that would seem to indicate the problem is in the ignition switch. Check to see you have the switch wired correctly. The terminals on the switch are labeled. I would also check to make sure the “L” terminal on the ignition switch is not touching something in the mounted position. That could explain why you had no problem when the switch was hanging lose.

Q: She is painted-beautiful dark metallic green. I noticed print on the new coil that states the coil does not have an internal resistor-must use an external resistor. Could you explain that to me? March 17, 2015.

A: Ferguson tractors use ignition coils that have an internal resistor. NAPA as well as a number of after-market suppliers sell coils that are equipped with internal resistors. To use a coil that does not have an internal resistor you will have to obtain a suitable resistor from the coil supplier and wire it in series with the coil with the wire coming from the ignition switch. If possible I would suggest returning the coil you received and purchasing a coil that has an internal resistor.

Q: I have a Ferguson TO20 or TE20 tractor. I put on a new ignition switch and did not notice one pole touching the frame. The wires melted. Now I do not know how they were connected and cannot get it to turn over. It has red light, 6 volt system. I had been hooking the negative ground to the negative battery as that was the way it was when I got it. I ordered a new wiring harness. The wire had been spliced, taped and are in poor shape. How do I figure out how it was wired. I got a wiring diagram and manual. The serial number is 37047. Is it positive ground or negative ground by the way it is made? It was running fine before this. How do I know if it is a TO or TE20? Any help would be appreciated. Wiring is all a mystery to me. 14 March, 2015.

A: The serial number plate for the tractor which is located at the top of the steering gear housing should indicate if the tractor is a TE or a TO model. The first two letters of the serial number should be either TE or TO. TO models should indicate the tractor was made by Harry Ferguson Inc., Detroit, MI. TE models should indicate the tractor was built by Standard Motors for Harry Ferguson Limited in the UK. There are several pictures showing the difference between the TE and TO models on our FENA web site. I’ve attached the link below. http://fergusontractors.org/fena/tractor-info/restoration-tips The link below will have the wiring diagrams you need to rewire your tractor. http://fergusontractors.org/fena/tractor-info/wiring-diagrams All TE and TO models were 6 volt positive ground. TO models were equipped with Delco Remy generators, starters, voltage regulators and distributors. On TE models these items were Lucas electrical components. The lower steering gear housing on TO models does not include the to cover for the transmission. The transmission top cover on TO model is a metal stamping. The lower steering gear housing on TE models extends over the top of the transmission and includes the gear shift lever. This detail is shown in the first link above. As for why you tractor will not turn over, I cannot answer that other than to suggest that possibly the battery is discharged enough that it will not turn the starter over or more of the wiring is damaged. You will have to check out each component individually as well as all the wiring going to each component. Later production TEA-20 models were 12 volt rather than 6 volt. TEA models were equipped with Standard Motors engines rather than the Continental engines used on the TE and TO models.

Q: I’ve got a good-running little TO-20 that my parents (in their 80s) and I found in Tilene KY last spring. Its been converted to 12 volt with a one-wire alternator setup. After purchasing it I had an experience tractor mechanic do an ignition tune up…points, plugs, condenser, rotor, dist. Cap. He also rebuilt the car. Last week the weather turned cold and rainy here in Tennessee. A few days later when I tried to start the TO-20 it was not getting fire. All summer long it’s been starting and running like a top. What would most likely cause it to stop firing and can you suggest a good method for trouble-shooting and finding the cause of the loss of fire? Just to be clear, it turns over just fine and I’m confident it’s getting fuel. The way I determined the lack of fire was by pulling off a spark plug wire, inserting a screwdriver and holding it very near the plug while cranking on the tractor.

A: There are a number of possibilities. I would start by removing the distributor cap and wiping up any moisture inside the cap and inside the distributor. Check the cap to see if there are any cracks or if there is moisture or corrosion in the towers of the cap. Check the tower on the coil too and clean the towers as needed. A pencil eraser usually works well but they actually make a tool to do this. If that does not get it started, use a test light to see if you are getting power to the primary side of the coil. With a 12 volt system, the coil should be 12 volt and the battery should be wired with the ground cable going to the negative (-) terminal. The coil should be wired with the (+) terminal connected to the wire going to the key switch. With your test light lead clipped to ground, touch the probe to the plus (+) terminal on the coil and turn the key on. The test lamp should light. It is doesn’t you should check the ignition switch and wiring. Then, connect the test light lead to the positive terminal of the battery and the probe to the terminal on the side of the distributor. Engage the starter and turn the engine over. You can do this with the key on or off. The test light should go on and off as the engine turns over and the points open and close. If the light does not go on and off, you have a problem with the points or condenser. Try cleaning the points using a slip of paper, With the cap off, turn the engine over until the point are closed and then move the paper back and forth between the points to clean the contacts. Recheck with a test light and if it does not go on and off as described above, check the point gap and reset if needed. Next replace the condenser and try it again. Next the coil wire and try again. Then try a different coil. I suspect there is moisture in the cap or the points have oxidized a bit but corrosion in the tower is also a good bet.

Q: Attached is a picture of the connector that plugs into the neutral safety switch on the 35 ‘s (and other tractors). My supplier is not aware of its proper name or how to get it. Can you help? November 1, 2014.

A: These are called bullet connectors and they are a standard automotive connector available at any automotive store, most hardware stores and electronic supply stores. They come in two diameters as well as different sizes for different gauge wire. The larger ones .176″ to .180″ diameter are used on most of the Ferguson and Massey Ferguson light wiring. The smaller size, .156″ is used on the neutral safety switch and on the terminals of the work light switch. There are multiple versions of insulated ones, some with heat shrink sleeves and some with hard plastic sleeves. The ones in the picture you sent are the uninsulated ones. These uninsulated ones are usually crimped and soldered to the wire. If you are unable to locate them locally, let me know and I can send you some. If you order a new wiring harness from Agri-Services these terminals will be on the wires that connect to the neutral safety switch.

Q: Because the hood on my TO 35 was rather rough, I purchased another from a. salvage yard complete with headlamps. However, I am questioning whether these headlamps are original equipment. They have Dietz stamped on the retainer ring. My work lamp has Hall stamped on it, so I am rather certain it is original. The work lamp was one with a moveable red lens. I think that lamp is rather funky, so I would like to use it. Agco no longer handles the red lens-do you know of a source for that lens? November 1, 2014.

A: The Dietz headlamps are not original. Dietz did not supply headlamps to Ferguson or Massey Ferguson. The correct headlamps for US produced Ferguson’s and Massey Ferguson’s are made by Hall, the same as your work light. A TO-35 would have Hall headlamps with a chrome bezel attached with two screws. Later MF35 models would have Hall headlamps with the bulbs attached with a large snap ring like the work light/taillight combination you have. These work light/taillights with the flip down red lens were standard equipment on the later MF35 and sold as replacement parts for the TO35. The red flip down lenses are very difficult to find today and generally quite pricey, often close to $100 each. I may be able to locate one for you as I did know where there was a least one for sale. As for the headlamps, you can usually find good used ones on eBay, at tractor salvage yards or at tractor show swap meets. The ones that match your work light/taillight were used on the late production MF35, MF50, MF65, MF85 and MF Super 90. The earlier version with the chrome bezel attached with two screws were used on the TO20, TO30, TO35, F40, MH50 and the earlier versions of the tractors previously listed. Some of these headlights have painted bezels rather than chrome but the original versions used on the TO35 were chrome. Dietz manufacturs headlamps similar to those used on Ferguson’s and Massey Ferguson’s and supplied headlamps to Ford. Many of the after-market replacement headlamps are made by Dietz.

Q: Hello, How is the regulator attached to my Ferguson 30? A picture of proper mounting would be great. It looks like the past owner just left it sitting unattached. November 1, 2014.

A: The voltage regulator mounts under the battery platform, just above where the support bolts to the bottom of the steering gear housing. The regulator is mounted with the cover facing the front of the tractor. You should be able to find the two holes for the mounting bolts on either side of a cutout area. If needed I can probably locate a picture.

Q: I just got what I think is a TE20. It could be a TO20 or a TO30. Can you tell me the spark gap? August 16, 2014.

A: I don’t know what you have but I’m sending you a link that should help you identify your tractor. http://fergusontractors.org/fena/wp-content/uploads/Tractor-Identification1.pdf? Assuming you have a TE-20 with a Continental Z120 engine with 18mm spark plugs, the gap should be .025″? The Z129 was used in the TO30 but you could put it in a TO or TE20. The Spark plug gap is the same.

Q: I recently purchased a Ferguson TO-35 Tractor, serial number 140030. All information I get is that it should be the 30th. one built. It has been somehow partially converted to a 12volt system. Wasn’t it originally a 6 volt system? I am doing a total, original restoration and want it original all the way. I intend to join FENA immediately and, I want to show this tractor. July 10, 2014

A: Yes, the TO-35s were originally 6 volt. Many of the 12 volt conversions continue to use the 6 volt starter so you may only need the generator, voltage regulator, ignition coil and starter solenoid. You will also need the proper gauge 6 volt battery cables.

If the tractor has lights you will need 6 volt bulbs for all the lights as well. This would be a good tractor to restore given its serial number. You will find details about paint colors and what is painted what color on our website. Keep me posted on your progress and remember I will be happy to help you find the parts you need to complete the restoration.

Q: I just purchased a TO 30. I gave it a tune up, oil change and flush, points, plugs and wires. I had a Farmer/ tractor mechanic help me set up the new distributor parts, he found that the tractor is wired for a negative ground rather than the required positive ground. The ammeter works, the generator is charging and she runs great except for a slight popping at the end of the horizontal exhaust pipe. He was really confused with the wiring negative ground, any thoughts on this. June 30, 2014

A: Yep, your TO-30 should be wired so the POSITIVE battery terminal is connected to ground. If someone has connected the negative battery terminal to ground you need to need to change the battery connections so the POSITIVE terminal is connected to ground and do the following before trying to start it again: 1. Make sure the wire to the negative terminal on the ignition coil is connected to the key switch; 2. Make sure the wire to the positive terminal on the ignition coil is connected to the distributor; 3.Check the rest of the wiring to make sure it is as shown in the following link: http://fergusontractors.org/fena/wp-content/uploads/TO-30-6V.pdf ; 4. Polarize the generator as described in the following link. http://fergusontractors.org/fena/wp-content/uploads/Polarizing-a-Generator.pdf. Your tractor should now be reset to positive ground and work the way it is supposed to.

Q: After finding some serious problems with the distributor on my To20, I installed a rebuilt distributor. How is the distributor supposed to be attached to the tractor and, is there supposed to be a seal between the distributor and the engine? It looks like there’s something wrong with the clamp that is supposed to hold the distributor to the engine, and there is no seal between the distributor and engine. It looks to me like the only thing holding the distributor is the bolt that sets the advance/retard setting. The clamp on the distributor shaft only clamps the shaft, it doesn’t hold the distributor to the engine. May 23, 2014

A: The clamp that is around the base of the distributor has an ear for a single 1/4″ bolt. That bolt is what attaches the distributor to the engine block. The gasket is an O ring which fits around the base of the distributor, just below the clamp described above. The part number for the O ring is MF # 760001M2. If you like I can get you the dimensions for that O ring which you should be able to get at most automotive supply, hardware or bearing supply stores.

I will send you an exploded view from the parts book and the parts list which shows the clamp, item # 52 on the exploded view and the parts list and the O ring, item #59. Let me know if you need the dimensions for the O ring and if this answers your question.

Q: I have a TO-30 that has a few problems. It will start and stop. I think it needs a new ignition switch. It needs a new fan shroud. It needs a new oil filter gasket, and I’d like to replace the working lights. Can you help me find these parts? May 7, 2014

A: The original ignition switch, part number 180681M93, is still available from AGCO/Massey Ferguson. I’ve included a link to Jack’s Small engines, a Massey dealer that sells parts online. Their price for the switch is $48.26 plus shipping. However the current switch does not come with the original style keys, it comes with plastic knob style keys as used on the later models. The original all metal keys are still available from several aftermarket suppliers like Steiner tractor parts. Steiner sells an aftermarket version of the ignition switch as well as their part number ABC116 for $23.85. The difference between the original style switch and the aftermarket version is the backing plate which is brown phenolic plastic on the original style switch and black plastic on the replacement version. There is also a difference in the screw terminals, the original style switch has a square metal tab that also acts as a lock washer, the aftermarket version just has a lockwasher. The bezel or switch indicator plates are no longer available from AGCO/MF but I do have some NOS originals I will sell. As for the headlights, are you interested in original headlights or some that are close to the originals? I have a full set of used headlight shells, the two headlights and the work light that I would sell. And I have a complete New Old Stock lighting kit that I would sell but that would be a bit expensive since it has collector value as well as useful value. I have a beautiful rebuilt original taillight I would sell as well, but there are some cheaper after-market alternatives that might be a little cheaper. The original wiring harness for the lights is being reproduced as well as the wiring harness for the tractor and I can direct you to where you can purchase it. Most of the wiring clips are being reproduced and I have those as well. The original style fender brackets for the rear lights are still available from AGCO/MF but they are extremely expensive, almost $100 each. Reproduction versions of the Ford bracket are available for around $50/pair and most people cannot tell the difference between them and the Ferguson originals. You would need sealed beam units to go with the shells to make complete headlamp and work light assemblies but these are available as well. The question with the sealed beams is if you want the original GE style unites with the same glass design as these are a bit more expensive that say the ones made by Westinghouse. I am not sure which gaskets you need for the oil filter. I need to know which tractor you have, a TE or TO-20, TO-30, TO-35 or F-40 as they all take different gaskets. I should have most of them however. As for the fan shroud, I believe there was someone reproducing these but I can’t remember who it was or if they are still available. Your best bet will probably finding a used one and I can direct you to several places that should be able to help you. I would contact Nolt’s Equipment in Newville, PA, 717-776-6242. They should have what you need. As for the smoking and randomly starting and stopping, I’m not sure without additional information. You could have bad or stuck piston rings, worn pistons and sleeves or valve problems. All of those could cause starting and stopping issues. The condition of you plugs, points, condenser, cap, plug wires and coil could also be a factor. Bad coils can cause starting and stopping problems but, the rest of the ignition system should be checked out and repaired as needed as well.

Q: Would you happen to have a wiring diagram for a 1964 MF 50 with a Perkins engine, mine has also been converted to a alternatorIf so is there a link you could send me so I can look at it or even email it to me.

A: To wire the tractor for an alternator with an internal regulator you can eliminate all the wiring for the generator and regulator. You can use the wiring diagram found on our website to wire the alternator. http://fergusontractors.org/fena/wp-content/uploads/Delco-2-wire-Alternator.pdf. Since your tractor has a pressure switch to turn on the power for the fuel gauge circuit, use the same pressure switch to turn on the exciter circuit, terminal #1, in place of the diode and ignition switch. The exciter circuit needs to be connected to the side of the pressure switch that is “hot” when the engine starts.

Q: I have a 1952 TO30 I am restoring. I can’t get the generator to charge. It has a new voltage regulator, the generator has been rebuilt, and it has a new battery. I am following the wiring diagram that you have on the Ferguson web site. I have rechecked everything. Any suggestions?

A: Have you polarized the generator? If your tractor is equipped with a generator and voltage regulator, they must be polarized before starting the tractor. See http://fergusontractors.org/fena/wp-content/uploads/Polarizing-a-Generator.pdf. Make sure the base of the voltage regulator is grounded. You can check it with a text light or VOM meter. Check each wire in the wiring harness individually with a meter to make sure it is ok. Try a different ammeter. If the ammeter is not working properly the generator will not charge.

Q: I HAVE A 1950 TO-20, A 1952 TO-30 AND LASTLY A 1954 TO-30. DO YOU KNOW WHERE I CAN GET A BATTERY TRAY FOR THE 1952?

A: If you are referring to the platform the battery sits on the only possibility I am aware of is a used one. The platform, part #181391M91. is the same for the TO-20 and the TO-30. That should increase the possibility of locating one. Check with local tractor salvage yards first, then check the larger yards with websites.

If you are referring to the cover that goes over the top of the battery, part #181711M91, there is a Ford part that will make a very good replacement, Ford #NCA10718A. You can order the original Ford part from any New Holland dealer or order the after-market replacement version, such as Steiner Tractor Parts #FDS369.